#1
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Hull to deck joint.?.....again..
The picture below is the inside of a Whitewater 25. I am in the process of strengthening the cabin roof which is the forward deck. I also want to glass the hull to the deck at the joint to make it stronger and water tight. Sometimes water will come in if I hit and extreme wave.
The problem is I have screws about every 6 - 12 inches holding this joint together and the rubrail on. I don't want to remove the rubrail at this time. The plan is to grind the screws flush and glass the entire seam. The screws obviously get hot during grinding. Do you guys think this will affect the glass and resin at all causing the screws and rubrail to fall off later? Another question, If you look at the pic you can see the glass looks orange. That is from the glue that held on the Gorilla Hair. Any tips on getting that stuff off? Others have suggested chemicals but the boat is covered right now and I would like to avoid breathing in all that stuff under the cover. The best tool I have found so far is a wire cup brush on the die grinder. Also any other tips or suggestions to my plan would be greatly appreciated.
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May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
#2
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Re: Hull to deck joint.?.....again..
I have to get some glue off in my cabin too. However, I believe the orange color is the plywood underneath the glass. |
#3
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Re: Hull to deck joint.?.....again..
Yes in certain parts of that shot you can see the plywood under the glass which is orange, but there is no plywood in the hull sides. This glue is caked on, 1/8" in some spots. I have used this wire cup brush on a die grinder with good results.
But it I need to remove all traces because I want to fill the weave of the hull sides with epoxy or fairing compound and paint. I am concerned the leftover glue will cause lifting in the future. Any opinions on the glue reacting with and epoxy/cabosil mixture?
__________________
May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
#4
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Re: Hull to deck joint.?.....again..
Quote:
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#5
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Re: Hull to deck joint.?.....again..
No, I have not tryed solvents yet. Capt. Chuck suggested zylene but cautioned against the fumes. The boat is under wraps and didn't want to chance freebasing zylene just yet. I figured I would remove what I can physically first before I resort to chemicals, I may come to that but not yet. Any suggestions?
__________________
May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
#6
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Re: Hull to deck joint.?.....again..
Quote:
If you do you will find out real quick that you will be sanding your ass off. Also when mixing epoxy and adding cabisol or microballon's in it you will find that in the mixing process will induce air into it. This will leave you with small pinhole's all over the surface. That mean's wiping in the surface again and again. Id suggest that you buy System 3's Quik Fair. It's ready to go and you mix it at a 7 to 3 ratio. I use a digital gram's scale. It is packed under vacuum to remove any air. You fold the 2 part's over on itself, like you would mix Bondo. It can be sanded after 4hrs unstead of having to wait 24hrs. Hamiliton Marine has the best price on it. You will be money and time way ahead of the game by using it. |
#7
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Re: Hull to deck joint.?.....again..
Yeah being closed in, fumes might be ...not so good !!! get a fan going and where a respirator
I wonder if something like Interstrip would help soften it to scrape it off ?? Acetone?? I agree with Wart on the cabosil ... that would be a tough fairing job at best !! what about spraying or rolling gelcoat ? |
#8
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Re: Hull to deck joint.?.....again..
I know the epoxy will be tought but I am concerned with adhesion. The sides are a rought weave, ovbiously structural glass. I neeed to get a more agressive wire brush that I can put on a 4" grinder. I think that will do the trick. Do you guys think a fairing compound will flake off when the hull side flex. They do not appear to move but I'm guessing all boats move somewhat. How would the Quik Fair handle that? Also how much do you think I need? If you look at the pic, the other side is the same plus the anchor locker bulkead.
Any opinions on grinding the screws and glassing the seams? Will the heat affect the glass?
__________________
May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
#9
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Re: Hull to deck joint.?.....again..
I usually buy the 1 1/2gal kit of Quik Fair. It's cheaper by volume.
As to the wire brush. A really tough one is a wire rope style. It doesn't roll over and flex to much and can dig really good. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91281 Quik Fair: http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/sear...term=Quik+Fair |
#10
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Re: Hull to deck joint.?.....again..
When at it with this guy yesterday on a Ryobi 4" grinder
Works alot better than the die grinder but still slow going. If you hold it in one place too long you could probably go right through the hull. I finished about 1/3 of the job in an hour. Atleast with the grinder, I don't have to wait for the compressor to pump up. Now I have my own personal beach in the cabin. No need to waste the fuel going to the beach.
__________________
May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
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