TRIM TAB ANOIDE

[FELLOW-SHIP]

I got a Yamaha 225 OX 66 II that I am running on the boat. I change out the Anode’s when they start looking bad and have been doing this all my life. Anyway I have replaced this trim tap anode 2 times in the last 6 months not because they are going bad but because they are missing I come home from fishing and IT’S Gone. I know how to put them on and tighten them down pretty good but What’s Up With This?? Should I put some lock tight on the threads?? Possible damage some of the threads on the bolt to make it harder to unscrew?? Use a lock washer?? What do you think??

Thanks in advance


FellowShip

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My motto: Just for the Grins

[Bryan A.]

I usually take the extra thread off with a hacksaw or grinder then take a punch and mess the threads a little. Not so much to make it impossible to remove but enough to stop it from vibrating off. Seems to work, haven't had one fall off or be impossible to remove the next year.

[eggsuckindog]

I would just put some Loc Tite or gasket goop on it, the threads probably get a little loose after changing them multiple times.

[Bryan A.]

Disregard what I said. I thought you were talking about trim tabs as in port and starboard now I see you are on the motor itself, the torque compensator tab thingy.

[RS]

Use a lock washer??

That's what I'd try first.

I'd be concerned with loosing a good metal to metal connection by coating the threads, unless there is good contact elsewhere.

[Chaos]

i have yamaha 200's and because of the saltwater i put never seaze on every bolt, on the motors and boat and have never had one come loose. the never seaze helps lubricate the threads so you get a little extra tightening as well.

[FELLOW-SHIP]

Thanks guys for all the impute. I went to a Yamaha yesterday and picked up my 3 trim tab in 6 months. Talked to the guy at the desk and he said you should put a Lot of mussel behind putting one on. I think I will try a combo of all three ideas damage the threads approx ½ way up just a little bit, but extra mussel behind it hopping I don’t strip the Zink’s softer metal and maybe put a little tab of lock tight approx ½ the way up the threads so I still get a good grounding effect of the Zink and the bolt.
FellowShip

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My motto: Just for the Grins

[Fr. Frank]

Loc-tite is good with a lock washer, but never-seize turns into "always-seized" aka permanent epoxy after a few months in saltwater if the boat is kept in the water. I don't know why. I do know that I've had to torch a whole lot of lower units over the years to get them off so I could change the impellors.

[Fishjack]

Fellowship - A little late but FWIW –

I have lost at least three trim tabs on my OX-66 250 Yam. In the past I had always just guessed at what was "tight" on the tab bolt. After I lost the last one I decided to check the torque specs in the Yamaha service manual - the spec is 42Nm (31 ft lb). I broke out the torque wrench tightened the last one to spec and have not lost it yet...

I know that on the one’s I lost I was not applying nearly enough torque just by guessing. Might be worth a try..

[NoBones]

Stainless Nylock nuts work well too.
Ken