Fiberglass repair/finishing Deck coat

[jobu]

I've done some fiberglass work but never finish type work. What is the easiest way to finish the rough look after sanding? I assume skim with some type of bondo/marine tex...what is the best application. I am planning on fixing some cracking on the deck. Also whats the best product to coat the floor surface when done?
The panels where re-caulked poorly and look shabby...any suggestions??
Thanks for your help. Joe (newbie)

[joseeli8797]

First dont use bondo or marine tex, bondo holds moisture and your hull naturaly due to day night teperature changes always has humidity in it cousing bondo to blister and as far as marine tex if not properly sanded and cured when sprayed or brushed over with gelcoat it will blister or give a negative reaction you will notice it like a big fish eye on the painted surface. as far as coating the deck, go to your local marine supply and get a pound of cabosil powder mix this powder with gelcoat until you get a thick past like textur or bondo texture add a wax solution so when it dries it will be sandable and buffable if need be make sure you mix it all together well and dont forget the catalist M E K to make it hard. I prefer cabosil instead of micro ballons or any other crap Becouse it does not change the color of the gelcoat and is tuffer also tuffer to sand, this is America buy a good sander! Hope that helped, probobly made it worse but I tried Fiberglassman.

[jobu]

Thanks Fiberglassman, it was very helpful. What about on small areas? The boat has some cracks on the corners of the fish boxes. I was going to try getting some Starboard (replacing the teak strips) and heating it to form around corners but they need to be filled/reinforced first.

[joseeli8797]

The only way to truly get rid of stress cracks or spider cracks as some call it is grind the cracks down into the fiberglass almost all the way through the fiberglass and then re lay fiberglass let it dry grind or fair it smooth, now you got to cover it with gelcoat past that you learned how to make in the last reply and fair it smooth now mix some pigment with gelcoat match the color to your boat, add wax solution and mek (catalist, Hardner ) spray on surface or brush on let dry sand smooth with 600 grit sand paper and buff out with 3m super dutty rubbing compound and you should have a masterpeice. Hopefully not a Piccaso good luck! P.S. my real advice is that crack only bothers you and is insagnificant [ Don't Worry About It!]

[spareparts]

Pick up the AwlGrip application manual, it will answer just about any prep question you have. You can get them from West Marine or anyone that sells AwlGrip paint, or it can be downloaded form their site

[jobu]

Normally cracks are not a bother but thease are on the outside corners of 2 hatches. They are about 20" by 18" and honestly will probably continue to crack through use because i think the hatch will continue to flex. So I think for now I am thinking of molding a piece of something (starboard?) around them and maybe in the future actually make new ones. This (fiberglass work) is a new area for me but I am a pretty well rounded carpenter and I think next winter I might make moulds of these hatches and give it a whirl. But for now I am thinking of the easy way out as the boat needs many more little things done to make it acceptable for the summer. Do you suggest any kind of moulding?

Thanks alot for your help...I might do the glass/gelcoat on the deck area though. How is awlgrip or gelcoat applied? What method?

[jobu]

One more post before I sleep...
How hard is it to Awlgrip above the waterline and topsides? How is it applied...rolled brushed sprayed?
Is gelcoat easier?
Any info/pros/cons welcomed.
Thanks guys...(now that i can't sleep thinking about it...hehe)

[joseeli8797]

Here we go again, awlgrip can be mixed with [US paints awlgrip non skid material]it is basicaly a clear silica fine sand substance, add about a 6 ounce measure of non skid coarse for every quart of awlgrip paint, use a paint roller to apply, saturate roller on another surface then the work surface,when it is almost totally dried apply another coat, If you want it to dry real fast add Awlgrip X-98 additive and your cure time will go down by 50% as always this response is just enough to raise mor questions but I try.

[joseeli8797]

AS far as painting above the water line,sand with 100 grit sand paper and fill all inperfections, apply Awlgrip 545 primer, sand with 220 grit for light colors 300 grit for dark, now spray or brush awlgrip, spray 3-4 coats, brush 2 coats. Mix for spaying 50/50,half paint half catalist, mix for brushing 50/25 or two parts paint one part catalist, reduce up to 25% for spaying and 10% for brushing. Make sure you wait 30 to 40 minutes bettween coats anless you add X-98 then as soon as drie to the touch spray another coat. Other things you may want Crater-X fish eye remover and Awl-400 wipedown solution get a US paints Awlgrip manuel and study it Awlgrip is expensive do it right the first time.

[jobu]

Thanks again fiberglass man...
the first sanding...is that to rmove all old gelcoat or just to scuff the surface?