18SF Restoration - Advice on top paint and details

[pjzabo]

Almost done on my 1977 18SF. Raised the transom to 25", new alum tank, fully rewired and fresh Zuke 140 swinging a 3 blade 14" prop. It screams and I love it. Deck was so solid I didn't want to mess with it so I went two good bilge pumps, cut out the stupid below deck livewell (that was fun), ping pong scuppers and deck drains. Will add a hinged splashboard. My focus is on "light and simple".

Questions - I had a friend spray the hull Awl-Craft Ice blue but I want to do the top (deck, gunnels, console) myself.

1. What paint should I use? Do I have to spray it or can I get a nice result with roll and tip?
2. I went with dual batteries in the console, but I also want to move the console forward a little to help with weight distribution. Is there a consensus on how much forward from stock is reasonable and still looks "right". Is 6" forward meaningful for a weight shift?
3. I want to replace stock seat with a small leaning post, but one that can still support two men behind the console - nothing fancy. Just something light to lean my butt against (no rodholders, etc.). What manufacturers/models do people like?
4. Anchor solution. I'm using a Fortress FX-7 anchor and 200' of rhode. I would like to store it cleanly. I was thinking of removing that small piece of wood floor in the front anchor cubby and seeing if it would fit in there hanging straight down - maybe I can mount a PVC tube somehow to put the shaft of the anchor in
and build a wall separating the fish box from the anchor/rhode storage area. Anybody try this?

Thanks in advance for any advice. This site has bee invaluable in helping me so far!!

Pete

[image]http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae266/pjzabo/BG.jpg?t=1302793374[/image]

[76Red18]

I moved my console forward 8". Worth the effort. Custom built leaning post could be the answer as it might be hard to find one to your liking; narrow ones are hard to find. Get rid of that piece of wood and build a bulk head in that front well like you mention to keep the rope in place. Mine holds 400' of 3/8 and a 12# seacure anchor nicely.

[uncleboo]

Here you go. Too much junk after the jpg.

[76Red18]

Very Nice!! Unique color for the 18s. More pictures and numbers. Show that baby off!!

[uncleboo]

Looks great!!! Can't wait until I can make those changes. I plan on moving my console forward at least 6", (still want to be able to put a 125 qt cooler between console and casting platform), and will be moving batteries further forward as well. The blue looks great.
This works good for me. A crack on each corner and 2 guys can ride.

[pjzabo]

I like that seat post, ideally I'd like it just a little wider and not on a pedestal, but I would consider that if I can't find what I'm ideally looking for. Who makes that?
The splashboard is perfect also.

More pics: Ping Pongs Bilge pumps and thru hull ducer Deck drains washdown pump and outlet

[uncleboo]

It's made by Todd. Reasonably priced. The bulkhead works well. I plan on putting the factory splashwell back in when I do the other work. Hopefully, next year I'll be able to make my modifications.

[76Red18]

A piece of very light, 22g or so, aluminum or stainless sheet cut a little larger then the rear hatch could keep water out of the bilge. A thin weatherstrip seal on the bottom, set it on the hatch receiver lip, close the hatch on the sheet and it would be near water proof. Still very easy to access the bilge. Thought about doing the same thing to mine. Definitely will now that I see how much space is available with that box removed.
EDIT>>I was so happy to see all that space, I didn't notice those deck drains. Run those to a small box of some kind with an auto pump inside, mount that in the bilge, and you would have a dry deck and bilge Small orange dry box comes to mind.

[Yz2009]

You did a really nice job it it. Looks great.

pjzabo-

So you just cut the rear fishbox out with a grinder? Ive been toying with the idea of doing this to my 20 all the fishbox does is collect rainwater and sand and it would be nice to have more access to the bilge. Im interested in how you went about doing it.

76RED18-

So just a thin waterproof strip all the way around the base where the lid sits should seal it, and the lid will still sit flush?

[76Red18]

Might have to grind a little off the hatch lip. Looking at mine, there would be clearance, the hinges are worn little and the lip has some wear as well. The lip cuts any weatherstrip pretty quickly and starts leaking; tried it. The hatch lip would set on the sheet with the weather strip between the sheet and deck.