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I'm going to be enclosing the transom this year and installing a Potter Bracket [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]
I will be eliminating the transom mount transducer. I have a older Sitex CVS106 in perfect condition. It is only a 200 RMS Output. The transducer is 120kHz. It is supposed to read to 1280ft but I lose it approx 800ft. Mike at Wildfire Marine is suggesting I cut a space in the center PVC stringer and glass in a transducer in the bilge. I have several questions [img]images/icons/confused.gif[/img] 1.Can I use my existing transom mount transducer? 2.Anyone have experience with installing one in a mineral oil bath verus epoxy to the hull? 3. I hear talk about the Airmar high performance transducers and will they work with my machine. Bottom line is should I keep this older machine or suck it up and spring for a new one ? [img]images/icons/frown.gif[/img] Anyone have experience with these issues? Thanks for the advise [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img] [ January 17, 2004, 09:49 PM: Message edited by: capt chuck steele ]
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![]() ![]() 1978 23' Superfish/Potter Bracket 250HP -------- as "Americans" you have the right to ...... "LIFE, LIBERTY and the PURSUIT of a Classic SeaCraft" -capt_chuck |
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I have two Airmar mineral oil transducers in the bilge of my Mako. One is for my Furuno fcv600L and works excellent. The other is for my Garmin 188C GPS/Sounder combo unit and I have not had a chance to use it yet.
If memory serves me correctly, the directions said to mount them about 4-6 inches left or right of the center line (not on it) and about 1-2 feet from the transom. I used Clear Lifeseal to adhere the ducers to the bilge. Unlike silicone, it is resistant to the mineral oil, it is also less brittle than epoxy and more forgiving than 5200 (if they ever needed to be moved or adjusted). Good luck. Ed |
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Hi Chuck
Why not just leave the unit on the transom? Bill |
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After having both thru hull (with fairing block) and transom mount styles I prefer the transom mount. IMO the transom mount works just as good as the thru hull and you dont have to cut a hole in the bottom of boat. I've never used the oil bath in the bilge method so I cant comment on that except you will not be able to get water temp. The transom mount should work with the potter bracket. If done right you dont have to drill holes in the transom. Epoxy a mounting pad were the transducer is to be placed and just screw into that.
Strick
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"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
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I agree with Strick,
I had the bronze thru hull on the 23 with the huge fairing block and got rid of it and installed the transom mount ducer insted. I didn't see any degration in perfomance at all, just less drag and turburlance. |
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My Seacraft came with an inexpensive Humminbird 300 RMS, 200 kHz FF with transom mount. The transom mount broke, so I put the 'ducer in the bilge in a PVC pipe with mineral oil. I also experimented with an old King 920 unit (120 kHz, 200 RMS) that had worked very well as a TM on my other boat. Results: the King failed at all but the highest gain settings in over 50 feet of water. The Humminbird works well in 50 to 80 feet and easily holds bottom to 40 MPH in under 50 ft. The Humminbird just does not perform very well (target separation, pixels, etc), though the in hull transducer setup is very good. Sooo... I bought a Garmin 320C, and intend on an in-hull, shoot thru installation.
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Best regards, Roger http://members.cox.net/rhstg44/Misc/...go%20small.jpg 1979, 20' Master Angler |
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