Thru bolt hull to top - advice wanted

[abl1111]

Ok. I forgot who I was dealing with here ---> The authors of, "How to build a boat like a 'brick sh_t house' ".

If I wanted to glass the the insides together - would I actually be able to glass all (3) parts together ? I am trying to get a visual of what this joint looks like ( my boat is under wraps now ).

If I wanted, and I'm not sure that I do, I could glass the seam of the (3) hull parts ? I think it is 90% accessable. With what materials would you do this; epoxy or poly ? How many layers of what and how wide would the strips of glass be ?

Lastly, I do not know that I want to get this crazy, although I do see the merits of it.

I might just want to go with pulling the old screws, replacing with new ones and bolting in between as someone mentioned. What would I seal the screw holes with ? I like "LIFE Caulk" is this a good application for the long haul ? I have leaned away from 5200 and am not familiar with 4200, although I know what it is.

[hermco]

Ok. I forgot who I was dealing with here ---> The authors of, "How to build a boat like a 'brick sh_t house' ".

I am not an author but I will offer an opinion based on my 25 years experience in the boat building industry. The standard method of affixing the cap to a hull and the installation of a rubrail differs with the manufacturer. In general it involves the application of a bead of 3M 5200 adhesive sealant between the cap and hull and securing the two parts with either #10 S.S. tapping screws or # 10 machine screws with washers and locknuts on the inside. Then a bead of 3M 5200 adhesive sealant is applied to any gap between the two parts prior to installation of the rubrail to prevent water from intruding into the boat. A bead of 3M 5200 is run at the approximate center of the estimated mounting area the rubrail and the rail is secured with #10 S. S. tapping screws. Then install the insert. A clean up of the excess 5200 is advised then a bead of sealant of choice should be used at the underside of the rail if any gaps are present. You now have a boat with a rubrail. However many manufacturers (Contender)and as we know "Trayder" go the extra step and "tab"/glass the boat on the inside for added strength and durability. In my experience the 5200 method with tapping screws is the standard. While rebuilding my personal 20" Seacraf I am going to go the extra mile and glass/tab where I can. I prepare the areas I will be installing the tabs by grinding then wiping with clean acetone. I cut approx 8"x8" square pieces of 1708 biax and wet out with resin on a piece of cardboard. Then I brush resin on the prepped areas and apply two biax piled on top of each other by hand using the brush to remove air bubbles.
And that is how I would build my boat like a brick sh** house! [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

[warthog5]

It's my contention that all manufacture's or designer's would like to see the boat become 1 piece.

This is not the case as it's just not easy to do and costly in production work.

I did it the hard way, but it's a brick house. I did it all the way around the boat from the outside. There is a lot of fairing to get it right again. 1808 and a layer of 3/4oz mat was vacuum bagged. I filled the gap with 5200 first, let it setup for over a week and then removed the pop rivit's. Then did the glass work.

This is just one section being done.




As to removing the screw's and replacing with machine screw's. I didn't see this brought out anywhere, but I would just R&R a few at a time so the cap doesn't shift.

[abl1111]

Thanks guys. I now have a clearer picture of what I will do. It's a little bit of what each have said - w/ Hermco leading the way !

One question: is it really a concern of the hull-cap joint shifting if I pull all the screws out at once ? Pulling all the screws out at once makes the grinding and glassing that much easier - I can do it all at once w/ nothing in the way.

What sealant is in the joint now ? ( manufact in 1975 ) Should I pull this sealant out anyway and replace with the newer 5200 ?

FYI: I have no leaks in the hull joint at all. I just feel that the SS screw need to get replaced, they have been bleeding rust on the inside liner - and I want to R/R them and add SS bolts... Glassing is a possibility, but 1st I need to see how EZ it will be to get a grinder in that tight spot...

[FELLOW-SHIP]

When I did my boat I pulled the cap off the boat to replace all the balsa lamination. When I put it back on the boat it was kind a like putting a plastic top on a Tupperware container it’s a snug fit. I used a crowbar it different places to assist me in this process. I didn’t have any areas that didn’t match up with the original holes of the cap and hull either. But if you did you will find many that would match up and I would put your screws in those first and then work from those locations all around the boat. As for new screws I replaces approx 20% with new ones due to either rust on being a little bent or the top stripping out a little. We all need to remember that stainless doesn’t mean STAIN FREE. As for the sealant 5200 is the way to go as Hermco said.


FellowShip

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My motto: Just for the Grins [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[TUGBOAT]

Did I mention # 10's as above,I don't think I kept an old screw,cleat anything.Went in a Jug & tossed.You shouldn't have a problem removing all the screws.Make sure that You do get them all !I missed eXactly which 20 Ya have SF / MA ? After I put the rubrail on I used the QUICK dry'n sealant under the bottom edge.A lot less runny as this can get Messy !TAPE the hull too. I used besides screws Machine Screws washers & Nylon lock nuts Easy to remove Years later!
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