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Capt Mac - just a thought, if you go to the home page and get to the pictures, there are quite a few 23's shown there, many with some step by step photo's showing rebuilds in progress - they may help.
that said, all the Seacrafts from 69 thru 82 are what is referred to as Potter built, in reference to Bill Potter, who co-designed and owned the company then - and they are all built pretty much the same way - so yours fits in this group, and will match what you see in the pictures. You don't have any wood in the two outer, main stringers - they are fiberglass boxes filled with foam - but the hull, as a whole, is not foam filled, in the same sense as a Boston whaler is. Pulling the access hatches and the gas tank floor plate should allow significant access to the inner hull. Some holes drilled low on the box stringers would allow them to drain, and can then be glassed over, and that's done. The transom is plywood. Most here have rebuilt it with either plywood or one of the composites - doing it looks scary, but really isn't so bad - there are many step by step pictures of guys who have done it. To do the seacast thing you would have to dig down from the top - probably not to bad for a minor repair around the outboard notch, but not as good as a complete transom rebuild. The transom can be done either from the outside, or the inside - both have been done successfully - do a search on the forum for transom rebuilds, and find some of the stories the guys have posted. Another resource is classicmako.com - where similar rebuilds on older mako's have been documented - again, many excellant pictures to show the way for a first timer. Study up, I'm sure you'll be back with questions. Good Luck !! Bill |
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