Seafari transom is wet

[Bushwacker]

When he filled in my transom prior to installing bracket, Don Herman said it was the driest transom he'd ever seen in a boat that old, so I haven't had the pleasure of a transom replacement! If your transom doesn't flex when you stand on the cav plate, you can probably let it go till it starts flexing. Maybe squirt some alcohol in the holes to dry it out and follow up with some Git-Rot. I did that years ago to fix some wet wood around the bait well inlet/exit, which is one area you should definitely check if you haven't already done so. The polyester putty used to seal that area tends to crack, so that's a potential transom soaker! The seam under the aluminum trim around engine cut out was also filled with brittle polyester putty so I ground that out and filled with Life Caulk when I got the boat in 1975, so I'm sure that also helped keep it dry.

When/if you do a transom repair, Don also recommends replacing from outside - leave about 2" of original skin all the way around the edge so you have a reference surface to fair the new skin to. A Seafari is no different than a CC if you go that route.

[McGillicuddy]

Thanks again guys,
I'll check all the through holes in the transom. I'm sure the motor mounts, the tilt motor, the ladder, the aux motor mount (what didn't they bolt on to this transom?)and the drains are worth checking for moisture.

I've seen the git-rot around but thought it was more aimed at dry rot. Also considered CPES and good old epoxy. Drying it out first will be the big trick.

I came across an interesting debate on the wooden boat forum. One seasoned gentleman was claiming the water absorption qualities of ethylene glycol were second to none. Apparently Gougeon Bros. did a study on bonding interaction of West Systems epoxy on white pine and white oak treated with various ethylene glycol solutions. In most solutions the bond remained greater than the wood. So I ask - should I squirt some anti-freeze in the holes to dry out the wood or stick with Dennis' alcohol plan. Also should I use doweling when I get to filling the holes or just straight epoxy with some talc, microspheres or cabosil.

After seeking out more advice from a local talent, he, like Bushwacker, said go with the alcohol. Drys much faster - the ethylene glycol will take much longer to dissipate.

Nice demolition plan Father, I too am far more prone to break things down. Always get hung-up on the re-build; I hesitate because I'm not sure I'm doing the best way

[oldbluesplayer]

Gillie -

I did a Seafari transom from the outside, documented here in CSC - search my posts from a couple of years ago.

Denny got it right on - use the alcohol to dry wood out, and pull your motor off, and remove the aluminum notch trim, your worst areas are going to be from poorly sealed motor mounting holes, and even more so, from the liner cap/outer hull seam, hiding under that trim - that area on my boat had opened up, easily letting water get into the plywood core.

If that's not bad, and all you suffer from is water intrusion at all the small screw holes holding on various brackets, then I would simply overdrill all those screw holes, stopping at the inside glass, and use epoxy resin, thickened slightly, to put in wooden plugs, then glass them over on the outside.

And, above all, whether you just plug the holes, or rebuild the core, go thru my posts, find the details on the knee I installed, and put in a knee from the transom stringer up to the inside face of the transom. That one detail will stiffen the transom like you wouldn't believe.

Good luck - these Seafari's are incredible little boats !!!

Bill