20 foot Master Angler floor repairs-rebuild

Gary Hill · #1 11-18-2009, 10:31 PM

I replaced some deck in mine and a friend suggested to do exactly that and it came out looking great!

rcnight · #2 11-19-2009, 06:12 PM

I had a soft spot in the forward deck. My boat is a '82 and it used plywood blocks for the core - the same thing on my '79 tank hatch. The blocks came apart very nicely which made demo easy. I think you'll find it was common practice - I don't recall any mention of balsa being used. I think there's some good threads that will walk you thru the repair process - pretty easy stuff. I'd use epoxy so you have longer lay-up time & better water barrier. Good luck.

lunasea17 · #3 11-19-2009, 08:05 PM

Monday or Tuesday I hope to do more cutting and see where I stand. I need to get an idea whats in store before winter as the boat is outside.

lunasea17 · #4 11-19-2009, 09:39 PM

RC I've seen the plywood squares used by several people on this site but have never seen an older deck made of them completely. My deck seems to be sheet plywood but maybe the 2" holes I drilled just didn't hit any seems.

rcnight · #5 11-20-2009, 02:00 PM

On the two repairs I did, the blocks were pretty snug - also helps with fitting the deck camber where needed. Once you go to ripping the skin off (save the skin to re-use), you'll see the pattern.

lunasea17 · #6 11-23-2009, 07:36 PM

RC I ripped out about half my deck today and you are correct about the plywood-squares about 5". For the most part they a saturated with water. In most areas they are not very well bonded to anything. Easier to remove. I think instead of reusing the deck skin I will go with a flat deck wall to wall instead of trying to refinish and piece back the origional deck. I had hoped to be able to do the deck like Gradysailfish did on his MA but the deck is loose from the side on the entire port side so I think I'll do away with the baseboard type edge with gutter and just have a flush deck. That way it will be easier to raise the deck also. I think?