What type of trailer?

[castalot]

5 star all roller 5200# carring 7300# gross love it

Single axle Continental aluminum float-on with 6 inch wide bunks for my 20SF. Launches and drives on easily. Just have to be faithful on the hubs and bearings every six months. I also use stainless hardware everywhere I can. I replace the galvanized bolts, braces, etc., whenever they need it with stainless. Just make sure to grease the threads before you torque the stainless bolts down! A word of warning. If you silicon the bunk carpet - don't undo the bow before you back it into the water. The boat will slide right off. Also make sure you hook the bow before pulling it out of the water. Don;t want to leave the boat on the pavement! I've seen it done more than once.

[Basspond]

I would highly recommend the aluminum with bunk route. I had a roller trailer for my old 20 which I thought was fine, after going to an aluminum bunk for my new 20, wow how easy can it get? Just make sure if you go that route to get the forward vee bunks, they really make a world of difference.

I do not keep my seacraft in the water and trailer 100% of the time and I really, really love my bunk trailer.

[Tiny]

Single axle Continental aluminum float-on with 6 inch wide bunks for my 20SF. Launches and drives on easily. Just have to be faithful on the hubs and bearings every six months. I also use stainless hardware everywhere I can. I replace the galvanized bolts, braces, etc., whenever they need it with stainless. Just make sure to grease the threads before you torque the stainless bolts down! A word of warning. If you silicon the bunk carpet - don't undo the bow before you back it into the water. The boat will slide right off. Also make sure you hook the bow before pulling it out of the water. Don;t want to leave the boat on the pavement! I've seen it done more than once.

I'm with this guy!

[ricknewman]

If you have a decent ramp to launch your boat then a float on is the way to go. Rollers can be a pain in the butt.

[NoBones]

Rollers can be a pain in the butt.

All depends on how you set them up!!!

My tandem axle Continental has all stainless hardware
galvanized axles, hubs and lug nuts.
Stainless Buddy Bearings.
7 Grease-able 12 inch Stoltz Keel rollers
8 Grease-able 4 inch Stoltz donut rollers
10,000 lb. Power Winch 3/16 inch stainless cable.
Stainless lanyard cable to operate winch "solo"
from 2 X 12 inch rough sawn Cedar walkboard to the back of the trailer!!!

About the greasable shafts, 5/8 inch galvanized bolts
that are 14 inches long. (excess cut off after head of
bolt welded to the galvanized roller frames)
Drilled approx 5 inches into the head of the bolt
then tapped for a zirc fitting....

This trailer works on any ramp anywhere.
I can launch and load by myself anytime!!

If you take care of it, It will take care of you!













Even works as a park bench for Doodlebug, Skipper-T &
Bushwacker....




Do not get me wrong, I also have Float-On trailers as well.
But for me, The roller trailer is my favorite.
Oh yeah, This trailer is a 1980 and still going strong..

See ya, Ken

[doodlebug]

Even works as a park bench for Doodlebug, Skipper-T &
Bushwacker..

I recall it being a breakfast booth

[pelican]

i have 4 "service" trailers,all roller.all urethane rollers too,never a problem with rollers,upkeep is minimal,give 'em a squirt with the hose...bearings hold up longer,due to the fact,the wheels are never submerged.bunk trailers in an area with a good tide swing,make it just about impossible to load and unload in a low tide.also,the aluminum trailers,these will float.personally,i would never own,nor do i reccomend bunk style trailers to customers...