'77 Sceptre Rebuild

Islandtrader · #1 06-13-2010, 10:36 AM

Quote:

1) I wouldn't wait for things to cure between steps. It will eliminate the need to sand, and the bond will be much stronger.

I will agree with you on this...with the exception of the first penetrating coat of epoxy.

If you prime the board first and let it dry you then know how much the wood sucked in the epoxy.

If you don't prime the board the cloth will suck the epoxy away from the wood and the bond will not be as firm.

Hope this is clear.

SBD · #2 06-14-2010, 10:09 AM

Agreed.

However if you wait until the hot coat is tacky, but not cured, the absorption will be over and you'll get a great bond...best of both world. The cloth will be tricky though.

newellchunker · #3 07-01-2010, 10:37 PM

Well, we finally got around to removing the hardtop, the rodholders, outrigger mounts and the rear hardtop legs today......poor 'ole girl looks a little naked! I took the advice I was given about resins, (thanks to all that replied!) and ordered 15 gals of epoxy from US Composites (I had purchased some from them last year...they were a little bit higher, but I received good customer service from them).

Now, how hard is it to remove the cap and recore the gunnels and bow area???? There was a bit of soft or almost non-existant wood in there in some spots. Suggestions here please...is this feasable or not?

htillman · #4 07-01-2010, 11:50 PM

I did this two years ago. I will be in NC late July as that is my home - Morehead City. PM me and I will either tell you about my experience or email you.
ET

ScottM · #5 07-03-2010, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Now, how hard is it to remove the cap and recore the gunnels and bow area???? There was a bit of soft or almost non-existant wood in there in some spots. Suggestions here please...is this feasable or not?

Contact Ebeach on this site. He did this to his a couple years ago.

newellchunker · #6 07-12-2010, 05:25 PM

Got our resin in from US Composites and started laying some glass....started with the fast one.... we removed the bowpulpit and recored it, laid one layer so far of 1708, when that cures going to sand and add another layer, then fair it out. I then mixed some resin and wet out the transom plywood so that it might be in better condition and not soak up too much resin when I start our layup. I plan on doing 2 layers of 1708 on the outside (facing the bow) and one on the inside (going against the outerskin, which will already have a layer of 1708) I need pointers or advice here if I should use the aforementioned schedule or something else....better! Thanks

Islandtrader · #7 07-13-2010, 09:11 AM

Not sure you need 2 layers facing the bow. Others will chime in.

Be sure to check out Stricks link or mine and make sure you set up a clamping system for the transom.

Most of us just use 2*4 with bolts thru the transom.

I saw on the sight here some one made a couple of BIG C clamps so he would not have to fill the holes.

Be sure a drill in a bunch of resin relief holes in the plywood so the stuff can ooze out while clamping.

Check out 65bowriders link also. She had a good pictorial on installing the transom.

wtenglish · #8 07-13-2010, 09:52 AM

I was told by a professional that thru bolting is not necessary to set the material for new transom. As long as you have it held in firmly the cabosil will do all the work. He recommended dry wall screws from the exterior which is what I used. Mine hasn't been tested yet so I can't confirm any of this...