23 CC minty green! - Page 3

Wildman · #1 06-06-2011, 09:00 PM

The live well does fit in front of the console, and there is about 10in on either side of it to walk by. I am having second thoughts about it though, one reason why I never finished it. I am considering hanging a set of toobes on the outside of the transom, over the bracket instead. Less water, less weight, still removable, less deck space lost. Right now the unfinished live well is just holding my bracket [img]/forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]
I have an extralarge Birdsall leaning post that I am putting in, from my Mako, I am also using the Mako console, the Ttop was orignaly from a 32 seacraft, and modified to fit the Mako console.

As far as I can tell they were a factory option on these boats, they all seam to be the same size (freeking huge) and construction that I have seen. I am really interested in seeing how they run.

http://www.birdsallmarine.com/fixed-...ray-p-307.html

http://www.seacraft-boats.com/boat/?boat=3085

couple of the only pictures I have of the whole rig assembled

BA17 · #2 06-06-2011, 10:16 PM

Can you put the livewell under the seat of the leaning post? I would plumb it and insulate it good and then you could use to hold a few cold beers when you weren't using it as a livewell. If you only live bait fish a few times a year then you will get pissed off a few times a year that you didn't set it up when did the re-do. I kick myself everytime I reach with my right hand for the throttles. That will be the next change I make after the next tournament. I cannot get used to having the throttles on the left side of the wheel and it would have been so easy to change when I re-did mine, now, not so much.

Wildman · #3 06-07-2011, 08:52 AM

I have kicked that idea around too. The reason why I like hanging them out side the transom is because the plumbing is hidden pretty easily and there is less 'stuff' on deck. I like keeping my cooler under the leaning post, because it JUST fits in there.

I know exactly what you mean about not wanting to re-do something after its done. One of the reasons this project is taking so long, I am planning on keeping it and want it to be ready to fish right out of the box!

Wildman · #4 07-21-2011, 10:06 AM

Put the bracket on last week, mainly to drill the holes and mark out for scuppers. Put another pass of filler to get the last of the body work on the transom cap *looks a little bumpy in the pics*
I also glassed the inside and mocked up the corner boxes/floor setup. It looks like ill have to build some sort of 'catch well' for the scuppers, below the level of the deck. If you look close inside the boat there are sharpie marks for the angle between the swim platform and the floatation tub of the bracket. Kinda sucks as I wanted to have a clear flat deck back to them, but oh well.

Wildman · #5 10-02-2011, 06:29 PM

Heres a few rigging pictures. The weather sucks so its been slow going. I have a buddy whos doing all the nice neat wiring.
This is where we are at after this weekends work. I have the next 'to order' list and thats my project for the rest of this evening. [8D]

Rub rail is all done

All the pumps are mounted and mostly plumbed

And the wiring is getting close, ran about 250ft of wire today, connected almost all the switches in my large panel.

Wildman · #6 10-18-2011, 12:59 PM

Wiring is just about finished up, the lack of daylight after work is bad to say the least....

All the lights, pumps, etc are all hooked up (and all plumbed except for livewell). I gota get another 4switch panel, and it will all work! I was out last night under the spreader lights making up the fuel manifold This week we hook up the motor adjust cables and run the thing finally!

That is if the weather holds...

There is still a whole list of things to buy this winter and the T-box still needs to be wired correctly, but I feel like the list is getting smaller. Pics to follow this evening.

YeA 20sF · #7 10-18-2011, 01:03 PM

What fuse plate are you using if u dont mind ?

Wildman · #8 10-19-2011, 07:04 AM

The boat is still a mess, zip tie ends, leaves in the bilge, hydro steering oil drips, once all this stuff is done its getting a good scrubbing. The motor turned over by the starter last night, first time in a WHILE, and its not stuck so theres a good start! Hydro steering is bleed out...

but I hooked up the hoses backwards, one step forward one step back.

Quote:

Originally Posted by YeA 20sF

What fuse plate are you using if u dont mind ?

Finished wiring pic.
Blue seas switch panels with built in breakers, Blue seas buss bars, ACR, etc. The bilge pumps, Ttop, have their own dedicated breakers in the rectangle box on the right. Its hard to see the labels in the pictures. I have swapped out all the fuses for water proof booted breakers in this boat. The plywood on the right is just temprary as the orignal wood in the console is beoyond junk. I will glass in a new piece at some point and re screw the loom.

Fuel manifold.

Bilge picture, the fish box plumbing has been finished, this was right after the wiring was done.

Wash down pump, and hose coiler, mounted inside corner box, hidden away, that box will be 'dry' storage for dock lines rod leashes, etc.

Thru hulls for pumps, and rear hull vents went on.

Spreader lights (no flash)

Over all shot with ladder and flash

I am not real happy with this, but if anybody has any suggestions how to make it a little neater, and semi water proof that would be great!

I have to say I really like these pump auto switches, they were suggested to me by a boat builder buddy of mine. Unaffected by oil and debris, the have a green light on the top when in the 'ready' position' Easy to test, and wont get stuck in the UP position.

http://www.boatownerswarehouse.com/b...cfm/4,655.html

Blue197320 · #9 10-19-2011, 12:45 AM

that IS some nice neat wiring. i wish i had paitence to do it like that. on the bright side all my circuits work.

hermco · #10 10-19-2011, 07:38 AM

You can use pvc pipe coming out of the cowl that will fit inside your rigging hose. Years ago we would heat pvc with a heat gun and close the cowl on it to form it. You can also use a seperate Cable Clam for the control cables coming out of the bracket so you don't have to cut into the rigging hose. I use one for the steering hoses as well. Since you have two holes for the steering thru hull fittings in the bracket already you could remove them, use a union to connect the two hoses and put two cable clams, one for the control cables and the other for the steering hoses using the same holes enlarged.