23 CC rebuild - shine

[FELLOW-SHIP]

Hi Cheg:

“On my boat”, taking under consideration all I said about what I did moving things forward my water line is approx ½” down from the top 90 degree corner edge of my trim tab bracket that screws into the transom.

With a single engine on the transom or a bracket with flotation for twins it should be somewhere like mine.

With a twin engine configuration the 23 will squat more and that water line would be higher on the transom. That’s why “for me” if I were to ever go with twin configuration I would want to raise the deck.

The SeaCraft design is a VERITABLE Deadrise hull and it sits in the water different that a straight 24 degree deadrise hull does.

My boat sits on a bunk type trailer. The bow of my boat does not rest on the bow side of my bunks. There is a gap of approx 1-2” between the boat hull and the bunks. If this is true on my trailer it is also true sitting in the water.

This is part of the reason why moving things forward on SeaCrafts is important. It helps in the bow to stern teeter totter effect to be reduced to a minimum. This needs to be factored into you over all re building plan. If not, your SeaCraft might look Great, it might right grate in ruff seas but it will effect you sitting at the dock or drifting around in open seas.

This is why many guys want to close off the transom and put a bracket on But if you add too much weight then the next issue is all the scupper threads on this sight.

Think About It.



FellowShip

………………………….

Just for the Grins

Official 23’ SF Antique Classic SeaCraft Owner

[shine]

Thank you to everyone for the data. I have enough information now to plan the boat.

I do not want to redesign the boat, although I am able to do this - redraw to boat from scratch and redesign the weights. It would mean making a model and I fiddle with weights and spit new out hydrostatics . One of the appeals of choosing a re-build is that all that work is done, all I need is original locations and weights and I can move everything around and maintain the CG and waterline the designer had in mind. Far be it for me to change a well balanced design

Also, the fact that this forum exists was a major consideration in choosing a seacraft to rebuild. Without a source like this forum, I would have to do a lot more work

Im getting very excited to use this boat, Im hoping to have it ready for power by May.

[Cheg]

Great info. Thanks.

[ledslinger]

Originally Posted by shine

Thank you to everyone for the data. I have enough information now to plan the boat.

I do not want to redesign the boat, although I am able to do this - redraw to boat from scratch and redesign the weights. It would mean making a model and I fiddle with weights and spit new out hydrostatics . One of the appeals of choosing a re-build is that all that work is done, all I need is original locations and weights and I can move everything around and maintain the CG and waterline the designer had in mind. Far be it for me to change a well balanced design

Also, the fact that this forum exists was a major consideration in choosing a seacraft to rebuild. Without a source like this forum, I would have to do a lot more work

Im getting very excited to use this boat, Im hoping to have it ready for power by May.

Shine, In my case, a 79 jackshafted diesel that has been converted to a closed transom bracketed outboard) I have no reference to what existed before and where the cg of the boat should be.

My question is how did you design your boat and where did you find the information to arrive at your calculations?

[george90]

hey very nice build so far i was wondering what did you do your middle stinger out of. i need to replace mine and i like how you did yours is that safe the do it like that it look like pvc?

[shine]

Hi George,

I made calculations for hull stiffness, based on frame/stringer spacing and hull thickness. According to those calculations (with my stiffener location which is not the same as stock SC), the center stringer was not required.

I made the PVC pipe center stringer to provide a little stiffness, plus its a drainage to the bilge for the rest of the compartments. Its made from a 4" piece of drain field PVC (light weight), its then covered in two layers of 1708. My project hull did not have a liner.

I added frames to my boat, between the stringers, which adds a lot of stiffness. If I had replaced the original liner, I would not have been able to fit in the frames. In that case I would have definitely replaced the center stringer as original. Hope that helps

BTW, something is wrong with my image tags in the above post, i tried several different ways to do it, but no luck. Im a little new to this thread posting thing, so maybe I will figure it out

[george90]

with out the liner would this make the boat easyer to crack and wouldnt that take off alot a weight

[shine]

with out the liner would this make the boat easyer to crack and wouldnt that take off alot a weight

I replaced the stiffness by adding all those frames and stiffeners you see. Yes, it should be lighter than the liner, but not at the expense of stiffness.

[george90]

with that big of a weight change how much would that effict the ride of the boat. i know a heavery boat handles waves better.

[shine]

Its not so much of a difference to throw off the ride of the boat. Besides, it not useful weight that I removed - If my SC hull is 300 lb lighter, then I can just carry more ice/beer/people/fish at the same weight/fuel burn.
[img][/img]
Will be painting soon





holes for bracket, drilled out to 1 1/2", then filled with milld fibers, chopped glass and epoxy, then 1/2" holes for bracket bolts re-drilled. Did this for all the hardware as well





Taking the old paint off. Then high build primer on the hull and insides.








Goal is to have her ready for rigging by Christmas