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#1
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For those that have raised the transom to 25 inches and reused the exterior skin...how did you build up the fiberglass in the 5 inch area that has no skin? Did u wrap the glass from the back of the boat up over the top of the cut out and into the splashwell? Or did you build up each area individually? Thanks for the help. I know wrapping the glass over the top will be hard with the 90 degree angles. Thanks
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#2
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You might what to take a router to the edges for the motor cutout. A layer of 1708 and 12oz mat together will usually bend good enough. Build the glass up on the outside and then maybe your last layer of glass(1708&12oz) wrap over into slashwell. If it were me I would grind off more gelcoat on the outside where u will be building up the glass. Basically so your last couple sheets of glass will overlap onto the original transom glass and cover more area. And grind the edge of the original glass where the wood extends up so it transitions from the glass to wood nicely, and makes for a stronger joint and less air.
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#3
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And the seam where you glassed the old skin on, dont be afraid to sand down all the surrounding gelcoat to try and smooth out the seam first before u use any fairing comp. Not much gelcoat left not to just sand it all off.
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#4
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Thanks parrot, all the transoms I've seen are not routered so I was curios if guys did wrap the glass or not. The way you said to do it is definitely stronger then glassing each area individually.
Should the transom be exactly 25 inches to the keel? Mine is just over 26 right now and before I glass I want to make sure I have the exact height I need. Thanks. My measurement is from the cutout along the back of the transom to the bottom, not vertically "hanging". What's the right way or does it matter? |
#5
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Got the raised portion of the transom glassed today. Tomorrow I'll start fairing and sanding. The last few layers were tied into the existing skin.
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#6
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I know...I have a lot of sanding in the future. My plan is to sand with 60 grit, wipe down then fair a lot thinner, than sand with 120' then either do it again or lay some mat than continue fairing and sanding with higher and higher grit until it is good.
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#7
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Dude, you have no idea... After the first hour, you're going to wish you'd done a thinner coat with that fairing compound. Make yourself a sanding board 4" wide and at least 24" long with two handles. It will help you to get it flat. I used 1/2" plywood to make mine and stuck 60 grit to it with contact cement.
Dave
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Blue Heron Boat Works Reinventing the wheel, one spoke at a time. |
#8
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Doh!
You're right, I blew it. You wrote Poly-Fair I read Quik-Fair. Totally different products. You're right on track, my eyeball to brain connection had a failure...
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Zachary [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
#9
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Way to make me sweat. Post up some pics of your rebuild so we can compare some notes. This is my first rehab so I love seeing and herring from others to learn.
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#10
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__________________
Zachary [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
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