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#1
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I took some measurements. My dry joint riser elbow is 7-1/2" above the deck.
That makes it 9-1/2" above the bottom of the scupper. On my boat, the scum line is another 2.5" below that, and the chine is another 2.5" Figuring that fully loaded, the scuppers might be just at sea level, then I have 9-1/2" from the riser to the ocean. And 12" sitting at the dock. Looks like I need at least a 4", and really more like a 6" riser extension. Thankfully, it looks like there is room. Although the 6" is starting to get close. Last edited by FishStretcher; 02-23-2013 at 04:48 PM. Reason: math |
#2
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Your tabs should be ok there. You don't want them any more OUTBOARD then that.
strick
__________________
"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
#3
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If any boat can do it, that one can!!
Dave, you are right, what you have is what I need, but I'm lazy, want to see how FishStretcher's work. |
#4
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One reason to have a tarp on your boat. Ice in the bilge.
Also I got some good DSLR pics of the stringer on the port side (the flash helped). I can post them? Sounds like I should cut into the binnacle on starboard to examine the situation there. Last edited by FishStretcher; 02-23-2013 at 04:45 PM. |
#5
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Another thing- the cockpit floor in mine has 1/2" holes drilled in the corners draining to the bilge. I suspect that is endangering the balsa core, but it might be solid fiberglass in the very corners. I was planning on boring these out and instaling 1" PVC bonded in with epoxy or plexus. These 4 corner scuppers could drain to the bilge or could feed a small sump with its own bilge pump that sits atop the keel stringer.
The idea is to have adequate drainage to keep the cabin itself dry(ish). And to pump the water that gets there past a hard top and windshield overboard before it has to run all the way aft under a few bulkheads to get to a bilge pump. Any thoughts? Especially with PVC scuppers/drains from topside to the bilge (not thru). I am not sure how strong a plexus or epoxy bonded in PVC pipe would be. I would slightly recess it below the deck height, but even so, I am concerned. |
#6
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Drain holes go right through the balsa. A few of mine had allowed water into the balsa core, with some modest rot. Surprisingly(to me) the deck seemed completely solid from above, lots of glass, I guess. I filled the rotted out balsa with epoxy (it wasn't all that much), filled the holes with epoxy paste and redrilled them. Worked OK, but the hole diameter is a bit small now. Holes at least as big as original, or bigger would be better. One problem with the arrangement, the water drops from the holes straight into the bilge, a loong way from the stern access. Pretty much any solids that drop through with the water are going to be trapped in the hull. Give it time and that will be a lot of crud. Several owners have reported drainage problems, maybe related to inaccessible crud. Screens on the drains would be a good idea.
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#7
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__________________
Blue Heron Boat Works Reinventing the wheel, one spoke at a time. |
#8
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Last edited by FishStretcher; 04-10-2013 at 09:37 PM. |
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Just a fun fact - 49 of the 80 25' Seafaris were made in '71 and'72.
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Blue Heron Boat Works Reinventing the wheel, one spoke at a time. Last edited by Blue_Heron; 04-11-2013 at 08:49 AM. |
#10
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My home depot plan goes from 1" drains thru to 1-1/4" hose. I really should have just turned the PVC down to make hose barbs on the lathe at work, but this is easier. And I think the socket welded 45 degree bend will be nice.
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