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#1
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The top of the gunnel has lots of both spider cracks as well as long cracks along the outside edge of the gunnel. I'm planning to lay some glass over them and am wondering if a layer or two of veil cloth will be enough to stop them from showing through? Or do I need to use heavier glass(biax)?
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#2
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Strick
__________________
"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
#3
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Great! That's what I was hoping, it'll be a lot easier than biax.
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#4
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Weekend updates.
The exterior of cuddy is fully tabbed on, still need to do the inside. Working through the long list of small items as well as planning out the transom storage boxes. |
#5
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You are doing a ton of great work on that boat. As I look at the pics of you sitting and standing in the boat, it looks like you are a little low, the boat is going to ride bow high and you might not be able to see in front of you. Perhaps its just a bad angle to judge it from the pic.
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#6
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#7
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It's time to order primer and paint. I have never used either so my big question is how much do I need? I'm planning to use Alexseal (matterhorn) and spray using a HVLP(i've never sprayed paint either). The hull will not get painted only the inside/new work. The goal is to get a respectable fishing boat finish not a Dirt level finish. I'm also using softsand for the nonskid.
Any other thought or recommendation are welcome. This is the step I've been looking forward to the least. I'm afraid of the "you don't know what you don't know" problems. I've watch all of the Boat Works Today videos and read a few forum regarding painting so that is the extent of my knowledge. |
#8
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Andy with Boat Works today has some great videos on Alexseal paint. IDK about the amount needed, but I am also curious. I just aquired a 1973 -23' and will be painting the hull above the bottom paint with Alexseal. It was painted professionally several years ago with Alexseal Oyster white paint , but took a beating over the last 2 years. I have printed out the product data sheets from their website and just started studying. Andy brags on how easy it is to roll and tip this product, he even brags on just rolling and not tipping .....it just seems to great DIY product. Please let us know how it goes
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#9
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Alexseal has been very easy to work with. I rolled a mako 20 last month. Not the greatest prep job, but the pain flowed out great. I did matterhorn white topside and Kingston grey hull sides. I rolled it with the additive and, most ppl who see it can't believe it was just rolled. Even a neighbor who paints cars was impressed with how well it rolled out. For top side, I used two quarts of just paint. The Softsand particles eats up the paint. I did one coat paint, let dry, scuffed, and taped off perimeter. Scuffed with red scotch bright. Rolled paint and sprinkled Medium grit softsand as thick as I could over sections. Let dry and reclaimed with a brush and dust pan for re-use. I recommend rolling the cover coat while the tape is still in place. That will keep any left over particles from attaching on the slick section. I learned the hard way. The paint covered in two coats, but I did three for good measure. I know it would be blasphemy, but ill post a few pics of the Mako for you to see.
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#10
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