Classic SeaCraft Community  

Go Back   Classic SeaCraft Community > Recovered Threads
FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-02-2021, 11:19 AM
JBASS02 JBASS02 is offline
Recovered
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 177
Default

The top of the gunnel has lots of both spider cracks as well as long cracks along the outside edge of the gunnel. I'm planning to lay some glass over them and am wondering if a layer or two of veil cloth will be enough to stop them from showing through? Or do I need to use heavier glass(biax)?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-03-2021, 07:09 PM
strick strick is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: California
Posts: 2,738
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JBASS02 View Post
The top of the gunnel has lots of both spider cracks as well as long cracks along the outside edge of the gunnel. I'm planning to lay some glass over them and am wondering if a layer or two of veil cloth will be enough to stop them from showing through? Or do I need to use heavier glass(biax)?
The light cloth should be enough.

Strick
__________________
"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany)
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-05-2021, 02:26 PM
JBASS02 JBASS02 is offline
Recovered
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 177
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by strick View Post
The light cloth should be enough.

Strick
Great! That's what I was hoping, it'll be a lot easier than biax.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-05-2021, 02:47 PM
JBASS02 JBASS02 is offline
Recovered
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 177
Default

Weekend updates.

The exterior of cuddy is fully tabbed on, still need to do the inside. Working through the long list of small items as well as planning out the transom storage boxes.
Attached Images
       
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-08-2021, 10:58 PM
MASBAS MASBAS is offline
Recovered
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 21
Default

You are doing a ton of great work on that boat. As I look at the pics of you sitting and standing in the boat, it looks like you are a little low, the boat is going to ride bow high and you might not be able to see in front of you. Perhaps its just a bad angle to judge it from the pic.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-09-2021, 10:46 AM
JBASS02 JBASS02 is offline
Recovered
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 177
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MASBAS View Post
You are doing a ton of great work on that boat. As I look at the pics of you sitting and standing in the boat, it looks like you are a little low, the boat is going to ride bow high and you might not be able to see in front of you. Perhaps its just a bad angle to judge it from the pic.
I think it's the angle of the photo, but we'll see. I can always put a spacer under the seat to raise it if needed. I rarely sit while driving anyhow.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-14-2021, 11:43 AM
JBASS02 JBASS02 is offline
Recovered
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 177
Default

It's time to order primer and paint. I have never used either so my big question is how much do I need? I'm planning to use Alexseal (matterhorn) and spray using a HVLP(i've never sprayed paint either). The hull will not get painted only the inside/new work. The goal is to get a respectable fishing boat finish not a Dirt level finish. I'm also using softsand for the nonskid.
Any other thought or recommendation are welcome. This is the step I've been looking forward to the least. I'm afraid of the "you don't know what you don't know" problems. I've watch all of the Boat Works Today videos and read a few forum regarding painting so that is the extent of my knowledge.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-15-2021, 02:45 PM
SeaChuck SeaChuck is offline
Recovered
 
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 14
Default

Andy with Boat Works today has some great videos on Alexseal paint. IDK about the amount needed, but I am also curious. I just aquired a 1973 -23' and will be painting the hull above the bottom paint with Alexseal. It was painted professionally several years ago with Alexseal Oyster white paint , but took a beating over the last 2 years. I have printed out the product data sheets from their website and just started studying. Andy brags on how easy it is to roll and tip this product, he even brags on just rolling and not tipping .....it just seems to great DIY product. Please let us know how it goes
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-15-2021, 03:54 PM
KNZ911 KNZ911 is offline
Recovered
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 100
Default

Alexseal has been very easy to work with. I rolled a mako 20 last month. Not the greatest prep job, but the pain flowed out great. I did matterhorn white topside and Kingston grey hull sides. I rolled it with the additive and, most ppl who see it can't believe it was just rolled. Even a neighbor who paints cars was impressed with how well it rolled out. For top side, I used two quarts of just paint. The Softsand particles eats up the paint. I did one coat paint, let dry, scuffed, and taped off perimeter. Scuffed with red scotch bright. Rolled paint and sprinkled Medium grit softsand as thick as I could over sections. Let dry and reclaimed with a brush and dust pan for re-use. I recommend rolling the cover coat while the tape is still in place. That will keep any left over particles from attaching on the slick section. I learned the hard way. The paint covered in two coats, but I did three for good measure. I know it would be blasphemy, but ill post a few pics of the Mako for you to see.
Attached Images
   
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-29-2021, 11:46 AM
JBASS02 JBASS02 is offline
Recovered
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 177
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KNZ911 View Post
Alexseal has been very easy to work with. I rolled a mako 20 last month. Not the greatest prep job, but the pain flowed out great. I did matterhorn white topside and Kingston grey hull sides. I rolled it with the additive and, most ppl who see it can't believe it was just rolled. Even a neighbor who paints cars was impressed with how well it rolled out. For top side, I used two quarts of just paint. The Softsand particles eats up the paint. I did one coat paint, let dry, scuffed, and taped off perimeter. Scuffed with red scotch bright. Rolled paint and sprinkled Medium grit softsand as thick as I could over sections. Let dry and reclaimed with a brush and dust pan for re-use. I recommend rolling the cover coat while the tape is still in place. That will keep any left over particles from attaching on the slick section. I learned the hard way. The paint covered in two coats, but I did three for good measure. I know it would be blasphemy, but ill post a few pics of the Mako for you to see.
Thanks for the reply. Your boat looks great. I ordered a gallon of the 442 primer so I'm hoping that will give me a good idea how much I need per coat. How bad was the smell? Will I stink out the neighbors if I paint in the driveway? How long did the paint smell last?
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:39 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
All original content © 2003-2013 ClassicSeacraft