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#1
02-27-2021, 08:53 AM
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Yours may be dry. The wood core when wet can expand and contract due to freezing and thawing....weakening the glass..take your boat out in rough water then split the keel. This is one of the spots where we have seen these boats fail. Ask me how I know. Better to take it out and replace with composit for peace of mind.
Strick
__________________
"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) 
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#2
02-27-2021, 10:25 AM
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Keeping in mind I live in boat materials waste land, anything would need shipped in unless it is a construction material, what composite would be used for this? The existing core appears to be a 1 1/2" by 2+" solid wood piece almost looks like cypress. With about 1/4" of glass laid up and tabbed in. Edit to add... what would you think about just reinforcing the keel stringer layup that is there now. I could add 2 layers of 1700 on top of 2 layers of 1708 12" tape, and could offset the tape by 3". That would get me new 1708 tabbing out 8" or so on each side and a couple layers of 1700 wrapped on to the keel 3-4" each side.
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#4
02-27-2021, 10:14 PM
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Man, I hear what your are saying but that's going to be a tough pill to swallow. Need to sleep on that for sure. I'll get out there tomorrow, lay down on the keel and talk to it a bit. HaHa.
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#6
03-01-2021, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
__________________
"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany)
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#7
03-01-2021, 08:54 PM
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I used a 1/2 PVC pipe. While you're in there, I'd take a hard look at the tabbing around that keel and the stringers. If you see black glass, it's likely moisture wicked up under the tabbing. I had to grind out a lot of it.
My tank bed was installed like yours was. and it laying hard on the stringers at the hull joint. I'd look at that joint too and look for any splitting in the stringer tabbing. I ended up entirely rehabbing the stringers and ground them out. I also added a fillet to help take a little stress off the stringer to hull joint. Yours might be fine, but I'd take a really hard look at all of it and like Strick said, get that old fir keel out while you've got it all apart. Good luck! It's all looking good.
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#9
03-02-2021, 08:06 AM
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Quote:
__________________
1975 SF18/ 2002 DF140 1972 15' MonArk/ 1972 Merc 50 http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/z...photos/SC3.jpg
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#10
03-02-2021, 10:01 AM
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So just to go down this rabbit hole.
What would the layup schedule be if you were going to glass in a half of a 3" pipe? The pipe is just for form right, not expecting any structural input from it. I would assume that the glass would need to be uni-directional(running the long way) for a large majority of the laminate, is that correct? Also, would I need to support the hull differently, right now it sits on the trailer and it has two keel rollers? It is a bunk trailer. I have been comfortable with everything else I have done, but Strick's hull splitting story, has me feeling like I need to consult a navel architect on this one! I can't imagine, at this point, making a keel stringer that is stronger than what they made in '75. The one in there now seems solid. However, I guess I will never know about its integrity until I cut it out. I have drilled 8 holes along it, just thru the glass, and have not found any discolored wood, but that is less than .1% of the area, so really proves nothing. All that said, other than the no wood argument, why cant I just use whats there as the mold. Get it down to good clean glass and add a few layers? There is no obvious "black" tabbing, even in the one place that there was an overlap that was not completely rolled down, but its on the top of the keel stringer, so less likely to sit in water.
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