I must like punishing myself - Page 10

billythekid · #91 04-11-2014, 11:24 PM

had sometime tonight to mess around with some stuff. I got the garboard drain drilled and got an layer of mat inside it to seal it up. I decided I wanted the gunnels wider in the rear so I scribed a line an made a cut. I made it 1.5" wider in the rear. I got it all fastened back together and ready for the flip.

alright I got back to the laminating table. I got the stringers all squared up and put the melamine down on it. either I am getting weaker or the melamine is getting heavier. Its got to be 90lbs a sheet with razor sharp edges!! The table is big. hard to tell in the photos, table is 8'x 18' edges all lined up and still have the 1/4" depression which in return will be a 1/4" crown for drainage.

pulled a string down the center and shot some finishing nails to secure everything.

straight edge across the deck showing the dip.

till next time

Blue_Heron · #92 04-12-2014, 08:30 AM

I'm glad you decided to finish it. There are lot of rebuilds going on, but only a few with this level of quality. I'll be watching to see what you core the deck with.
Dave

billythekid · #93 04-12-2014, 10:15 PM

I got sometime this afternoon to work on the boat and got some work done. I flipped the cap back off and and glassed in the gunnel, where it was cut.

I got the cap cored and ready for glass, I used dyvinacell, corecell and aircell I think was the name of it? anyways, I show a series of pics on how I dry fit the coring material.

I guessed and figured there was 2"-3" of curve so I oversized the with by three inches to get the curvature in the coring

I cut the scribed curve, then fit it back and cut the squares out to make it fit.

I then take a tape measure and and a marker and hold it at 2.5" against the outside and and scribed the coring with my marker. then cut it and fit.

well after I got done I mixed up about 2 qts of divilette putty and trawled it in with a 1/4"x 1/4" tile trowl.

you can see the corecell in the center bow, this is where the bow cleat goes.

I let it kick for about 2 hours and went back with the multimaster and put a 45 degree bevel on the coring so the glass will flow smoothly off it.

billythekid · #94 04-13-2014, 09:54 PM

I glassed the coring today, it takes longer to dry fit the glass then it does to lay it! I put a layer of mat and a layer of 1708 over it. In some spots where the rivet holes were reallymessed up I left the glass long and rolled it up the inner edge to beef it up.

I cant believe how strong the cap is now.

I also layed two more layer of glass over where I split the gunnel.

gonna try to get the template done for the floor tomorrow afternoon.

also someone asked me how I got the dynaglass in between the bulkheads and the stringers, I packed an empty caulk tube full of material and made it really easy to squirt into the joint. I got the empty tubes from aim tubes from sj discounts

Capt Chuck · #95 04-13-2014, 10:00 PM

Yo Billy

I'm glad you took my advise and got back at it : your kids are not too "Young" to watch and pass a wrench....enjoy brother

BTW: Get out of that NJ weather & come on down to Fla and take care of some deck issues I have....I love your work

capt chuck

billythekid · #96 04-14-2014, 08:59 PM

I had an hour of sunlight left when I got home and went to work. I was determined to finish the floor template. I got 90% done when I was called in for dinner. tomorrow I will finish up where the bilge hatch is going and the fuel sending unit, pick up tube pie plate will go. trying to start laminating this weekend.

gofastsandman · #97 04-14-2014, 10:30 PM

Putting some more lipstick on my slacker pig because of you.
Thanks for the help along the way.
Cheers!

billythekid · #98 04-16-2014, 07:17 PM

alright I decided to re use the large front hatch and the bow hatch as my bilge hatch. They were close to size I wanted and they are already built. I know I will have to recore them but the hard work is done. So for my mold table I got some 3/4" MDF for the plugs. I added a 1/8" al the way around with a piece of luan. I then gave the radius of the corners with a steady hand and a pencil....

here I have the luan pushed up against the hatch to give myself 1/8"

After I cut everything to the size I needed I put a small radius around the top of it and fit them into place. Next came the radius wax that I got from Joe Merton (merton fiberglass). Basically I put it down in place and use a socket on an extenstion to radius around the plugs. I use a little heat to melt it into place.

I have the three plugs in place and waxed up. I have the layout of the stringers and the fuel fill also the rigging tubes. I am not gonna core a certain area under the console so I can make some cuts later and don't have to be so exact. the plugs you see are the bilge hatch, fuel sending unit/pick up and the front hatch

billythekid · #99 04-20-2014, 10:23 PM

well I got a good start on the deck this weekend I got the duratec sprayed, 2 layers of mat down, and then the 3rd layer of mat and 1708 down. I needed help for the durtec and skin coat. So my my friend Mark came by and we kicked its ass. We sprayed the duratec and put the skin coat down in 2 hours. With 40 minutes of primer kicking off.

I cut all the glass the day before and had it rolled up and marked for laminating

Mark is the man with the cup gun. He has been doing this a long time, there was no sense in me getting in his way. I mixed and kept the cup gun fed. We used 1.5 gallons of duratec for the deck build

here is how we set the mat to laminate, when the flop over they are over lapping by about an 1"

billythekid · #**100** 04-20-2014, 10:43 PM

Mark had to go after the first coat was down so I figured I could get the second coat down myself. I got it done but don't think I would attempt it again. It was too much rolling, mixing and laminating for one person.... I used deck putty from Joe mertons to fill the radius of the hatches to give the 1708 an easier flow over them.

With the second coat applied and some time to kill I decided to blend the old engine box and console together. I first cut 3" off the console with the air trimmer, Which I still think is one of the best ways to cut fiberglass anyway. That newer console I cut had to be one of the thickest consoles ever made. It was 1/2" thick in the corners. It took about 3 hours and a lot of head scratching along with cutting/ fitting, cutting/fitting and it finally came together. I am gonna build a livewell into it and glass it into one.