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  #1  
Old 05-23-2014, 09:20 PM
FishStretcher FishStretcher is offline
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Default resin oddity

Weird. Mine starts red-brown, then stirring in the MEKP, it goes red-green. Brushing it on it still has this translucent red-green-pink hue. It cures sort of yellowpink, like ginger root. But it is in no way white or opaque.

I believe I have Vipel F010-TBN-28 with a cobalt (napthenate) accelerator for room temp cure.

The elongation is 6.2%
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  #2  
Old 05-24-2014, 07:05 PM
FishStretcher FishStretcher is offline
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Thanks for the tip!

I don't have a side grinder. Yet!

Installed the carbon deck stiffener today. Mixed up some VE/glass microbaloon/ milled fiber/ fumed silica and catalyzed at just under 2%. Installed it with 3 car jacks. One in the middle, one each end. It kicked nicely. We will see how it looks tomorrow. I might actually have put a little crown in the deck if I am lucky.
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  #3  
Old 05-26-2014, 10:49 AM
flyingfrizzle flyingfrizzle is offline
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The resin I use is also an AOC product, It is a Hydropel High Performance Vinyl-Ester infusion resin. I like the infusion resin because of the low viscosity. 1708 lays up better with a thin resin to get a good fast absorption plus I was planning on doing some vacuum bagging also is why I went with a thinner viscosity. I cant find the MSDS but here is a link to a close version to what I have: (my product number is slightly different but it is about the same resin)

http://www.aoc-resins.com/web/site/p.../500/C145/C18/

PS. Get the side grinder, I use that mostly cutting fiberglass with the supper thin metal blade or either a diamond coated tile/concrete blade. The cut very well and last a good while too.
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  #4  
Old 05-26-2014, 10:18 PM
FishStretcher FishStretcher is offline
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The carbon deck stiffener works great. You can just barely tell the difference between stiffener and stiffener held in place by 3 scissor jacks, on stringers and keelson. I am very happy. And with a 1" carbon part, the tank fits. It didn't with a 2x4 held in with shoddy woven roving.

I tabbed in the forward side of the forward tank bulkhead today with 2 layers of 1708DBM in vinylester. And fit the trapezoidal spacers for the tank-engine compartment bulkhead. I glued them down with 1/32" milled fibers, glass micro balloons and fumed silica in vinylester.

The tank deck goes in well for a dry fit and the Moeler FT-5056-R1 tank fits nicely. I will foam it all in place.

I still have to patch the hole for the old thru-hull for the head water intake, install a midships/ cockpit drain bilge system, fit the rear bulkhead, patch the strip from the fuel tank hatch to engine cowl, change the raw water impeller, plumb and wire the tank and splash to check for leaks. Before the end of June.
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  #5  
Old 06-05-2014, 01:49 PM
FishStretcher FishStretcher is offline
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Well, the 25 won't be going on vacation this year. I ran out of time. The bulkheads are in. The aft most one looks nice. The lip on the fuel tank hatch has been recreated. But that is where it will stop for this month. I will put the fancy fish finder on the 20 and use that for now so I can install tanks and such in less of a rush later this summer.

I hope to hit the northern MA to southern ME cost later this year with the 25. Maybe for the tuna bite.
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  #6  
Old 06-08-2014, 08:59 AM
FishStretcher FishStretcher is offline
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Thumbs up

A shot of the aft bulkhead glassed in. And the G10 tube to recreate the fuel tank hatch opening lip. And the nidacore/glass tank deck.

This was after a sprint to get it done on a Sunday night. So there is PVA and excess putty everywhere. But with a carbon deck stiffener, a foam core tank hatch and the G10 tube as a tank hatch lip, now I can jump on the tank hatch and nothing moves, which is a HUGE improvement. I think 2015 will be the year for resurfacing the deck.
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  #7  
Old 08-16-2014, 10:35 PM
FishStretcher FishStretcher is offline
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Glassed in the hole for the water pickup for the head and foamed in the void between the hull and the tank deck. I used PEX extruded polyethylene forced hot water tube to connect the limber holes. I probably only got 3 cubic feet of foam down there.

I have 10 layers of 1708 over the hole. 5 inside, 5 out done in wet on wet vinylester. I had to do the outside in 4 different batches, as I was laying the 1708 on upside-down.

That spot lines up pretty squarely with a bunk when loading, so I am glad to get of an old crusty bronze through hull there.
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  #8  
Old 08-16-2014, 10:46 PM
FishStretcher FishStretcher is offline
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Looks like my circles of glass might not be as concentric as I wanted. And I have some grinding to do, but between bottom paint, peel ply and PVA, it shouldn't be terrible. Thankfully I haven't had to do any cosmetic stuff yet this year.
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  #9  
Old 08-17-2014, 11:34 AM
Bushwacker Bushwacker is offline
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Looks pretty concentric to me in that last shot! I think the camera/deadrise angle in that first pic made it look worse than it really is!
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  #10  
Old 08-31-2014, 10:09 PM
FishStretcher FishStretcher is offline
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So I decided to foam in the tank deck, but not glass it in. It doesn't seem worth the effort. It is stuck down solidly with the foam, resting on the keelson. I plumbed two 3/4 PEX tube from the fore and aft tank compartment bulkheads. I recommend it. It can be bent to conform to the hull easily.

At any rate, I will do what moeller says and put foam padding between the tank and where it rests. But I will just foam that in under it. So it would be tank- 3/8" foam sheet- 2-4" floatation foam- hull/ stringers.

The tank is just under the (main) deck. I am not 100% sure how (if) to restrain it that way. I can put some foam in a bag and squeeze it between the tank top and the deck? Straps would be really tough to do, I think.

Any thoughts?
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