1978 SF restoration, my first one..... - Page 14

wtenglish · #**131** 07-26-2010, 08:03 AM

I started building the forms for the gunnel supports. There will be three on each side that will mirror each other so I am building three forms that will be used twice each.

Carboard was used for the template. This is transfering the dimension to hardiboard.

Form to be waxed and have PVA applied.

Glassing in the area between the transom and the top cap.

Center console after three coats of Signature.

I couldn't help but mock up the teak facing I built a while back. Still have some sanding to do.

Islandtrader · #**132** 07-26-2010, 09:20 AM

Quote:

I couldn't help but mock up the teak facing I built a while back. Still have some sanding to do.

I know the feeling. Every once in awhile you just have to do something that looks good...just to make yourself feel like your getting something done, and not only glassing and fairing all the time.

The router work on the teak looks real nice. Nothing like a little teak to make the boat look "Salty"

SBD · #**133** 07-26-2010, 09:49 AM

Quote:

I know the feeling. Every once in awhile you just have to do something that looks good...just to make yourself feel like your getting something done, and not only glassing and fairing all the time.

Amen!!!

SeaPlusPlus · #**134** 07-26-2010, 09:56 AM

Lookin good. That teak is gonna look amazing.

mitchman · #**135** 07-26-2010, 10:20 AM

I'd like to cut my gunnels to about the height you have marked in your photo as well. My inside gunnels currently run all the way to the floor. Do you need to finish the inside of the hull that is exposed? And if so what's your plan for doing that?

Also, what size fuel tank do you have in there?

wtenglish · #**136** 07-26-2010, 10:41 AM

Thanks for the compliments guys!

Mitchman,

keep in mind that the inside of the gunnels were originally attached to the deck that formed the inner liner. I scrapped all of that when I built the new deck. If you go through some of my earlier post you can see how I cut it apart. Not sure how yours is set up but you could wind up with a void between the deck and the hull if you cut it withough removing the entire inner liner.

The exposed surface that you see is woven roven which would leave a very rough fnished surface. I've thought about fairing that surface but think that I will wind up adding about two layers of matt and sanding that down before painting. I will have to remove the top cap at least one more time when I install the supports and glass them to the hull and deck and will finish both sides at that point.

Either way I'm looking at a tremendous amount of sanding which is going to require the purchase of a new unit. Apparently my Black and Decker Cyclone has been discontinued as I can't find paper for it anymore and I don't believe my orbital is up to the challenge. Any recommendations for what to purchase would be appreciated.

wtenglish · #**137** 07-26-2010, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Also, what size fuel tank do you have in there?

Missed the last part. It is 47 gallons which was the size of the original. I just couldn't imagine that I would need anything bigger than that.

Capt Chuck · #**138** 07-26-2010, 11:42 AM

Quote:

One conflict is that my raw water and rod holder location is now in conflict. I've got to figure out how to work around that.

Pre mount the rod holder then use a heat gun and bend the raw water pvc to fit

wtenglish · #**139** 08-04-2010, 08:59 AM

The real conflict was that I had originally planned on having the two rod holders exposed to view where they passed through the gunnels. The gunnel support would have hidden the raw water line and would be used to mount the hose bibb on. I decided that I would make the support at that part of the gunnel 8" wide as opposed to 6" for the other two for each side. This way I could just hide all of it so I bought two rodholders that are tapped for a 1/4" drain and will run tubing to the bilge. I had to decide between a rod holder with either a 15 or 30 degree angle.

In this picture you can see a sheet of paper where I laid out both to analyze a possible conflict and decided to go with the 15 degree type. You can also see where I used 45 degree bends at the angles for the washdown line to reduce friction loss however minimal that might be.

Support angles after glassing.

Being popped out of mold.

One that has been trimmed to fit versus the raw one. Notice the sharpie lines, it takes some time with a lot of gradual cuts to get these to fit correctly right.

Supports set in place to check the layout.

Islandtrader · #**140** 08-04-2010, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Support angles after glassing.

I know it is a little late for this comment...however.

Is there a reason for doing the support angle mold as a male mold (the way you show in your picture)

If you did it as a female mold you would have less fairing and sanding to do? Just curious. Otherwise things are coming together well.