LIVEWELL on a 23' CC

[James Tackle]

What for power do you have Fellowship? Just curious if my transom sits lower than yours. I have a pair of 115 johnsons on it.

[FELLOW-SHIP]

I got one 225 YAMAHA EFI 30" shaft mounted on the transom. Your twins will weigh more than my one. I also moved the oil tank, batteries, 15 Gal. Fresh water wash down tank under the C.C. to help move weight forward. The gas tank starts at the front of the C.C. and goes back to where the leaning post seat is screwed in that should be similar to yours. All of my deck and cap have been re laminated with 1/2 " marine plywood which would add more weight to my boat but that would also distribute it more towards the bow as well. All in all I moved the center balance line of my boat approx 18" towards the bow of the boat by all of my re distributing of weight (remember I also moved the live well from the transom to where yours is now). That could cause my stern to ride just a littler higher in the water, but remember plywood does weigh more that balsa for all the lamination I did I bet I added 200 lbs of weight to my boat.
FellowShip [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

I'm still waiting. Of all the great information you guys have suppluied I still do not see where anyone has succeeded at the task of getting the water OUT. Have I missed something?

[JohnB]

I have a 23' 89 Sceptre with a livewell in the floor simular to the CC's.
What I did was mount a small bilge pump with a integral float switch right off the end of the top drain hole of the live well, hooked the wires to the livewell light/circuit. When water gets within 2" of the top of the livewell, the pump kicks in and tosses it out. I also put pvc shutoff valve on the fresh water in hole so I can regulate the volume of water coming in. Between this, and the rabud sculpers with the check ball, I now have dry feet with 3 guys standing in the back of the boat. The only problem with the rabuds, is you need to install a stainless strainer in front of them, or crap gets in there and clogs them. I found that the stainless screen filter from a bilge pume (I think it was a rule) for 2.49 cents worked just fine.
If you can't get the picture, let me know, and I will shoot some digitals for reference (but not today, its pouring rain out there).

[FELLOW-SHIP]

HA STEVE
I thought I made it clear I have the in deck live well and plumbed it with the through hull scoop type intake then cut off valve then live well pump. Attach the hose from the pump approx 2/3 up from bottom of tank. Drain hull in the bottom of tank and a 1 ½ drain hose from the top of tank approx 4 to 6 “ down to bottom of transom and a 1 ½ “ brass pipe to let the water out. I use it every weekend and “I never” get water on the deck unless a dead bait fish gets stuck in the 1 ½ drain hose so I put a bathroom drain top like in shower stalls over the 1 ½ drain to fix that. Re read my comments on this post.
FellowShip [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

[JT]

I have a 20' with the in deck live well and as someone else posted, you need a pump out for it to work flawless. say you have a 500 pump in, (at the lowest point practicle,with the attwood adjustable spray valve thing and you should have an open/close petcock adjustable thru hull for your water supply) I simply have 2 large probably 2" diameter nylon adjustable flow shower drain looking things that are at the highest point practicle in the rear of the livewell spaced apart, that each have hoses that "T" into one then reduced obviously, into say another 500 pump out through the deck over the transom right next to the motor. NOW my point is that with all the adjustability of the water flow coming into the livewell, you simply adjust it so that the water out pump constantly is pumping water out even when you're running. the pumps can run dry, suck air whatever, but its always pumping out. the pumps have to have their own toggles also. Works excellent, good Luck hey James tackle, you still want the 23 splashwell folding wood thing?