Knocking Down Orange Peel

[thedink9]

TIM

I applied 1 fairly heavy coat. I was treated to 50 degree weather today and wet sanded a 3 by 3' area . It started getting dark so I will have to wait until tomorrow, buff it out and see what I have. I will try to take and post a picture or 2 if the weather coorporates. Rich

[ob1jeeper]

Trayder,
Obviously I do not have a sufficient knowledge base of the folks on this site to be assuming there may be lurking a neophyte or two amongst those posting questions requesting information/advice. [img]/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]

thedink,
If I have offended, in assuming you may not be expert in knocking orange peel, I apologize to you as well. [img]/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

Best wishes for a successful orange peel correcting experience... [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

[Ed]

Dink-

Either method will work. I personally don't like using DA's for finish work because if you look carefully, they leave small orbital scratches in the finish....more evident when then paper gets dirty.

Personally, I would try a 2x2 section the old fashion way (600, paper, water and a squeegee) and see how it looks. If it does not knock down the peel enough...you can break out the DA and get more aggressive but even then I would still go back and do a final finish wetsanding by hand.

If it makes you feel better...I have wetsanded and buffed by hand an entire 30 Pearson Flyer. (My arms were like jello though)

I've wet sanded an entire 3o' Pearson Flyer with a spray bottle, 600 paper and a squeeg

[Scott]

ob1
I'm curious to see how Rich makes out with the process. I personally can not imagine wetsanding rolled orange peel out of my entire hull !! The area that he is doing is just about equal to doing the hull side ...cept there is alot more nooks and crannys to deal with. I've wetsanded several hulls , including mine, for cosmetic reasons to bring back gloss. There's no peel involved and its still a monumental sp? task ...I HATE IT. Then trying to fair out peel(that was rolled on) with 400 ..WOW. I too have always used a DA to sand gelcoat prior to wetsanding and buffing out. Its always faired out beautifully. Even if you screw it up, sure you'll need to recoat, its not that big a deal. ...I would think doing it all by hand would also lead to variations and irregularities in the surface ... you can get variation in wetsanding(for cosmetics) as I mentioned above and you dont even have to worry about getting the surface smooth.

How many hulls have you finished like this,just wetsanding ?? Talk about alot of work !!! YIKES

[thedink9]

I tried the wet sanding approach yesterday and I was not very happy with the results. Too much rubbing for too little results.

So I will try the sanding approach!

I do not have any dye. Can you tell me where I can get some and how do you apply? With a small brush? From what you posted, I was assuming I brushed it on and then sanded it off. Also, where can I get 320 grit paper , hook and loop for my 6" porter cable sander? I couldn't find it at the local Lowes or Home depot. They only had up to 220.

[Trayder]

Dink-

I am sorry the wet-sanding did not work.

There is a ton of mis-information in this thread. I strive to keep the info on Classicseacraft.com factual from experience but many people read something on a web-site and then regurgitate the info when they see someone requesting similar info. I see it all the time and shake my head.

The Mako boy's method is dead nuts on when it comes to refinishing oxidized gel-coat.

Unfortunatly, as you now know there is no way you will efficiently cutlarge areas of orange peel from newly applied gel coat with 400 grit wet/dry.

To answer your questions:

Dykem is a cutting dye used by machine shops and places that cut sheet metal. You can buy it at industrial material shops, one place I know that has it in stock is Aquidneck fasteners in Tiverton RI. I have a full bottle in my shop and am happy to let you use it, PM your address and I will get it up to you.

You apply the dykem with a rag, much like applying stain on wood. saturate the rag and wipe on the are you plan on finishing. put it on thin and test it in a small area.

let it dry for a few minutes and then with the sander on 1 or 2 hit the area until the dykem goes away thus leveling the highs/lows, immeadiatly move on once the dykem is gone. It is imperative you keep the D/A flat to the surface you are re-finishing.

You can pick up Mirka brand (my favorite) hook and loop sanding sheets at Burns Power Tools in Fall River Mass. Try not to speand too much time at Burns or you will quickly deplete ant budget you had left for the boat (the place is power tool Mecca)

After you have leveled your area start with 400 wet and dry and work you way up.

A few notes

1: you may need a thicker base of gel-coat, one rolled on layer may very well break through

2: Since I know you used Signature finish on the other areas of you boat you can always fall back on that to refinish this area if your gel is too thin.

3: To all other folks out there (and you know who you are as we exchanged unpleasant PM's) please do not post your methods unless you have actually done them.

[ob1jeeper]

dink,
I too am sorry the wetsanding with 400, followed by lots of elbow grease with rubbing/polishing compound is more work than you had hoped for.

I'm the "know-nothing" that Trayder is referring to as having ZERO experience. [img]/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

No more posting or responding to folks here is NO problem at all...

It's a shame for your members, you don't believe opinions and experiences other than your own, may have some validity. [img]/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

PS: Quite the contrary to what you saw as unpleasant PM exchanges, I thought they were pretty informative [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] You simply chose to dislike the answers [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

[Ed]

I am bowing out of this conversation and have decide to refrain from offering future advice.

Dink, good luck with your project.

[Finster]

Yikes! Talk about a bunch of Mary's getting their panties in a wad....Jeeze. [img]/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]

Dink, I've worked on more boats than I care to remember and I have to say Trayder hit the nail on the head. That's a aw-full large area to cover by wet sanding. Though very effective for small area's.

There are countless boating websites that deal in nothing but read knowledge/opinion. We try to keep the integrity of this site high and there for peoples feelings get hurt from time to time. But if you want the no BS skinny you've come to the right place. [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

[Capt Chuck]

It's a shame for your members, you don't believe opinions and experiences other than your own, may have some validity.
PS: Quite the contrary to what you saw as unpleasant PM exchanges, I thought they were pretty informative You simply chose to dislike the answers

OB1jeeper

I have posted many times as a novice SeaCraft owner for over 25 years, hoping the knowledge I have gained would benefit others. If I'm wrong,then I'm wrong, so be it!. I take it in stride. That's what forums are for to exchange ideas not turn them into a court battle... however, your post is OUT-OF-LINE! Remarks or comments made within a PM should not be posted.
PM means PRIVATE.....

As one of the SeaCraft Forum Moderators I ask you to keep personal feelings under wraps [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]