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#11
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The motor is getting freshened next month. Plans call for a litle bigger hydroller cam and some light bowl and guide boss porting. Also put enough valve spring in it to survive the rare out of water event (over rev). Presently the motor would only spin the 17x17(Modi?) wheel to 3900 WOT. At the 3000rpm cruise it probably wasn't at max efficiency. I think beter MPG, and better top end are realistic.
I'd really like to hear some suggestions on paint to seal up the bilge after media blasting. Ireally it would be sprayable. |
#12
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__________________
May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
#13
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KModi gets pissed when I call it a water car but it's hard not to.
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#14
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The price is right and a ideal product to be immersed in water all the time. No primer needed. |
#15
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Looks like you got a recommendation on paint. I would have said any marine enamel if the prep. is done well.
I thought I used Vetus marine exhaust thru-hulls but could not find a link. They were a PVC flanged fitting that the hoses connect to nicely. The original tubes were just glassed in and I thought the fitting was a better solution. My boat had new power (MP350) a few years back but all the surrounding components were still original, including the fuel tank, not a good approach. Once the engine and trans. are out and everything is opened up it's the time to do packings, hoses, valves, thru hull even the cutlass bearing and get the shaft checked and straightened. The day I do repower I'm going for the white bilge, seen enough machine gray. |
#16
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I would have to second Wart's suggestion of the Tileclad HS. I followed his lead on that from classic mako and am extremely pleased.
I have used it under the helm area and it brightens it up nicely. I will be applying it to the inner v-birth area in the spring and am looking forward to that. I have yet to try it in the bilge but I have no doubt it will be great there to. You can get a two gallon kit for a little over a hundred bucks and the stuff goes on great and looks great, very easy to work with. My problem is I had too much left over after the small project I did. But I will use it up, no doubt. The pic does not do the stuff justice. It is tough as nails. I takes a few days to fully cure though. ![]()
__________________
May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
#17
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the back deck is totally rotted, and i am going to recore it, but everything else is looking good. i am going to do some drilling in a few places to channel/drain some of the water better if i get dunked, and i will definately look at the packing on the rudder asap, thanks!!! |
#18
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where did u get the teflon from? |
#19
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what about the interior, what did u do about blasting, repainting, etc? |
#20
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