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  #11  
Old 01-11-2007, 01:19 PM
wendell wendell is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 13
Default Re: 1976 23 Inboard

The motor is getting freshened next month. Plans call for a litle bigger hydroller cam and some light bowl and guide boss porting. Also put enough valve spring in it to survive the rare out of water event (over rev). Presently the motor would only spin the 17x17(Modi?) wheel to 3900 WOT. At the 3000rpm cruise it probably wasn't at max efficiency. I think beter MPG, and better top end are realistic.

I'd really like to hear some suggestions on paint to seal up the bilge after media blasting. Ireally it would be sprayable.
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  #12  
Old 01-11-2007, 04:30 PM
Bryan A. Bryan A. is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Westbrook CT
Posts: 748
Default Re: 1976 23 Inboard

Quote:
Plans call for a litle bigger hydroller cam and some light bowl and guide boss porting.
That's what I like to hear. Startin' to sound like a hotrodder.
__________________
May all your deadrise be variable.
My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF
Parker 2530 DVEC
Boston Whaler 15 1984
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  #13  
Old 01-11-2007, 05:15 PM
wendell wendell is offline
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Default Re: 1976 23 Inboard

KModi gets pissed when I call it a water car but it's hard not to.
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  #14  
Old 01-11-2007, 06:49 PM
warthog5 warthog5 is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Pensacola,Fl.
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Default Re: 1976 23 Inboard

Quote:
i too am looking to have a white bilge perhaps, any reccomendations on paint?
Shurwin Williams Tile Clad HS.

The price is right and a ideal product to be immersed in water all the time.

No primer needed.
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  #15  
Old 01-11-2007, 09:46 PM
MarkR MarkR is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Cohasset, Ma
Posts: 94
Default Re: 1976 23 Inboard

Looks like you got a recommendation on paint. I would have said any marine enamel if the prep. is done well.

I thought I used Vetus marine exhaust thru-hulls but could not find a link. They were a PVC flanged fitting that the hoses connect to nicely. The original tubes were just glassed in and I thought the fitting was a better solution.

My boat had new power (MP350) a few years back but all the surrounding components were still original, including the fuel tank, not a good approach. Once the engine and trans. are out and everything is opened up it's the time to do packings, hoses, valves, thru hull even the cutlass bearing and get the shaft checked and straightened.

The day I do repower I'm going for the white bilge, seen enough machine gray.
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  #16  
Old 01-11-2007, 10:04 PM
Bryan A. Bryan A. is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Westbrook CT
Posts: 748
Default Re: 1976 23 Inboard

I would have to second Wart's suggestion of the Tileclad HS. I followed his lead on that from classic mako and am extremely pleased.

I have used it under the helm area and it brightens it up nicely. I will be applying it to the inner v-birth area in the spring and am looking forward to that. I have yet to try it in the bilge but I have no doubt it will be great there to.
You can get a two gallon kit for a little over a hundred bucks and the stuff goes on great and looks great, very easy to work with. My problem is I had too much left over after the small project I did. But I will use it up, no doubt.

The pic does not do the stuff justice. It is tough as nails. I takes a few days to fully cure though.

__________________
May all your deadrise be variable.
My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF
Parker 2530 DVEC
Boston Whaler 15 1984
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  #17  
Old 01-12-2007, 01:38 PM
Kmodi9 Kmodi9 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 37
Default Re: 1976 23 Inboard

Quote:
i have heard to many horror stories from dripless stuffing boxes- no way for me. i got a little bit of water from the starboard stringer outboard of the gas tank but not much- the deck is wood and the transom and iif i remember right thats it. I like a grey bilge personally (i am around lots of grey all day anyway right gary?) That stuffing box on your rudder- i dont know if the packing gland nut on yours is frozen or not but mine was and I had to heat it up to break it loose. repacked it, got all the play out of it and my steering wheel thanks me for it. there is stuff under that rear deck that you will never see again (im sure you know how hard it is to get to the point where you can pull it off) take care of anything you can find while its up and off. I would consider recoring the hatch too if you have the time-

Hey Mark- happy new year dude! LTNS

the back deck is totally rotted, and i am going to recore it, but everything else is looking good. i am going to do some drilling in a few places to channel/drain some of the water better if i get dunked, and i will definately look at the packing on the rudder asap, thanks!!!
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  #18  
Old 01-12-2007, 01:41 PM
Kmodi9 Kmodi9 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 37
Default Re: 1976 23 Inboard

Quote:
I'm with Craig,not a fan of the dripless stuffing box.I just repacked mine with 3 layers of teflon packing and she hardly drips a drop.
do u have a inboard seacraft? lets see some pics!

where did u get the teflon from?
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  #19  
Old 01-12-2007, 01:42 PM
Kmodi9 Kmodi9 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 37
Default Re: 1976 23 Inboard

Quote:
As far as soda blasting the boat I had the bottom of my boat soda blasted and then re gel coated turned out good and really cleaned it up a lot but it did cause pitting of the bottom which needed some filling in before my re gel coating job. If it was me I would only do the Bottom and the Bilge area.

Before


In the middle


After



FellowShip

_______________________________________________

My motto: Just for the Grins




what about the interior, what did u do about blasting, repainting, etc?
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  #20  
Old 01-12-2007, 01:43 PM
Kmodi9 Kmodi9 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 37
Default Re: 1976 23 Inboard

Quote:
KModi gets pissed when I call it a water car but it's hard not to.
its a montauk water car.......get it right!
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