77 23' Savage

[bdolnik]

I put 3" spacers in to help keep out water ingestion into the engine, I think is the way to go.

I bet I'm going to have a BUNCH of questions for you First off what does the 3" spacers mean?

The motor I'm looking at is a 350 carburated rated at 300hp. I could go fuel injected for an extra $1000 or so and get 330hp. I think I like the simplicity of the carb though.

[doodlebug]

Ken,where is it going to be and when,The tall one only
camps in hotels or the motor home and it's ready to go

[Ryank]

That is defintely not the boat I was looking at, The one I considered was white and it was running, But you have a great boat there! I hope you got a good price on her, and I hope you show us pictures once you're done! Congrats!!!

[65Bowrider]

Ok NoBones...you just committed to organizing a gathering on THIS SIDE of the state.
Just tell me WHEN & WHERE...WE'LL BE THERE!!!

[1bayouboy]

Spacers.......on inboards and I/Os the engine is down in the hull.....the exhaust manifolds have risers on them...they go up...and then down to the exhaust...through the prop usually for an I/O, or through some muffler system and transom for an inboard. The spacer raises the height of the riser even higher....that's so a wave doesn't force water into the engine through the exhaust...there are flapper valves in the exhausts as well....but it's all to keep that evil water out.

[GetReel]

Good luck. Having gutted a 1975 IB which is basically the same setup, I can respond with some experience:

Tanks under aft deck, 2 @ 50 gals +/-. If original replace. Keep them for fabricator to use. They are in tight and you may want them to be made 1/2 shallower because the decks sometimes ride on them. Also moisture collects under them so get expoxy coated tanks.

Drain plug is where you found it, not easy to get to. I suggest a rear bilge pump also near shaft log.

Your shaft should be 1 and qtr inch, if original, could be an issue with new engine torque....

If you can afford it, get a new bob-tail fuel injected engine. Also check and make sure that the EFI engine has a "cooling pot" for the hot unspent fuel to return to...

Most trans are 1 and a half turn. By the time you find everything to replace, easier and perhaps cheaper to go all new. Also, this is a heavy boat and you may want the EFI to save fuel.

Original engines were mostly Ford 351's, mine came with it.

Good luck, great boat.

[bdolnik]

Thanks Jeff...

Yep, have already pulled up the hatch and seen the two tanks there. Being aluminum is it not possible to just pressure test and use them if the test ok?

Was planning on 2 bilge pumps, there is an access hatch just behind the console to the shaft so that sounds like a good place to put another one.

I'm really on the fence with the new motor. $$$ Just keeps adding up when I add FWC and EFI. Mechanic here doesn't think the raw water cooling is such a big deal, says he sees more engines die for other reasons then that, plus the one in there has been going for 30 years with raw water cooling.

Would like the EFI to but again more $$$.

I think mines a GM. I have to check that tomorrow, engine guy said GM's had distributer in back, and Fords are in front (I think that's right).

Sigh... I'm really just at the point where I want to tell the mechanic to pull the old one and order the new one. I've been reading and researching untold hours and still unsure of the right thing to do.

[bdolnik]

Here are some pictures of the existing motor, looks like it's definitely a GM block with the distributor in the back.

[Old'sCool]

Looks like a small block chev to me, with dual plane intake, holley carb.......brings back memories of the hot rod years!!

[Miles Offshore]

And the exhaust manifolds already have the 3"/4" extensions between them and the risers.