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#11
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My questions: 1. If it is determined that my transom needs work, I would like to rebuild it and close it in. With a closed in transom, would I be able to use a hydraulic jack plate (porta bracket, bobs, CMC, etc) or bracket to mount my existing 20" engine to the transom? 2. If #1 is feasible, would the placement of this jack plate or bracket for a 20" motor limit me to a 20" repower in the future? 3. If #2 is yes, is this necessarily something to worry about? Would my engine be in jeopardy going about it this way? (The boat will be used for fishing in the chesapeake bay/inlets and limited short range offshore in good weather conditions.) 4. What would you guys do in this (my) situation, most likely bad 34 year old transom that needs to be replaced, older but decent condition 20" engine that will last me until I can save for a repower or at least until my friend repowers his boat, who has a newer (than my engine) 20" shaft engine that I could get for next to nothing once he repowers. Do I rebuild the transom back to 20" so I dont have to worry about the headache of a bracket/jack plate and just use 20" engines in the future? Do I close it in and try and do one of the scenarios above with the bracket/plate with my 20"? I mean is a 20" engine on a closed transom with a bracket or jack plate a bad idea? Forgive me if I'm sounding redundant or short, I'm just trying to make sound decisions for my wallet and investment (my lovely seacraft) so therefore picking the brains of the masters. I really appreciate all the info you guys are providing. |
#12
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I have a 1970 20ft and I had my transom rebuilt last year.
I had it raised up to 25 inches. I too was not in a position to buy a new motor. I have a 2000 Johnson that is in fine working order, so I just got the lower unit spacer kit and it made the motor useable on a 25 inch transom. I can take some pictures if you would like to see. I am also close by in Poquoson if you would like to see it in person. |
#13
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If it were me I'd start with adding 5" extension kit to motor. Like DBL511 said, it doesn't make sense to set a boat up for a 20" motor these days, unless it's a bass boat! You'd be creating something that would be hard to sell as most new salt water motors and boats are set up for 25" shaft. Those Porta bracket/jackplates are fairly expensive as I remember from Terry's post, and there's no flotation tank to offset the stern-heavy effect of moving motor rearward. An aluminum bracket might be more bang for the buck. Just make sure to get one with a flotation tank; the more setback it has, the bigger the flotation tank should be.
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'72 SeaFari/150E-Tec/Hermco Bracket, owned since 1975. http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...Part2019-1.jpg |
#14
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Denny is right on, you will regret the 20"! The motor will rest lower in the water at rest and while getting up on plane, because of the attitude of the boat, like a lever as the bow rises the outboard on the opposite end will lower. You will really notice this when coming off plane as the boat will slow and it will appear the poewrhead is really close to the waterline. Reagrding Air/flotation; Mine has a very large flotation bucket, On my last boat I had a Stainless Marine Brand, volume of air bucket wasnt very large, My new A&J has much more volume.I beleive the Aluminum is about 1/8 thicker on this A&J bracket.spend some time looking around, this is the second one.I found each for less than $300.
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I heard it on the coconut telegraph.......... |
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