25' Potter CC?

[Bigshrimpin]

Tim-

You are rather well versed at:

1: Shipping SeaCrafts x-country
2: Collecting all sizes (I note a 25 is missing)18,20(x2),23
3: Buying a garage, errr home with enough room to work on 25
4: Collecting enough outboards to power it with quads


that I think Strick's other 25 has you name all over it......

If I didn't just buy that 23 . . . then I'd have it in my yard already. I think it may be time to start a Non-Profit SeaCraft Shelter . . . Maybe begin taking donations for a Seacraft 25 restoration fund.

[Blue_Heron]

... About a year or 2 ago . . . there was a 25 seafari (converted to CC) that bigfluke bought and had shipped to Hawaii. It was a Tuna boat from chatham with a HUGE slush box that could hold a Giant Tuna. Bigfluke mentioned somewhere that there was Huge fishbox when full balanced that boat out perfectly.

The following are shots of Bigfluke's CSC 25 CC conversion. Hopefully, he won't mind me posting them. He said the Big Block I/O and the fish box (located below decks, I believe) kept the CG low and moved it slightly forward, making this the best handling of the three 25 Seafaris he owns.

[workinpr0gress]

Cool pics.... I would have to find a hacked 25 because I would wan't the cap flush like a 20sf or 23sf

[Blue_Heron]

...I would have to find a hacked 25 because I would wan't the cap flush like a 20sf or 23sf

Maybe not. If you cut it down tight to the hull/deck joint like a SF, the coaming on the inside will be about knee high, kinda short. You would probably want to do a cap like a MA.

[workinpr0gress]

Here's my dilemma , keep in mind it's all strictly my opinion based on expierence on the water and in the yard and plain old what I like. I want something that has similar cockpit space to my old 27 worldcat without doing all the funny knifing in a tall following following/quartering sea. It's especially interesting running in from 80 to 100+ miles in the dark on the radar/ plotter when the weather comes up on you and you can't read the sea. All that said it was easily the best running smaller boat along with my square ugly old SeaCat(which IMO responded a little better than the Worldcat in some conditions). When you really start to understand how to run a cat they are the ultimate "showoff boat". But I want something a little more predictable to anyone that will ever be on the boat. A vdh is almost always predictable. My 20sf hits me right at the knee in the rear 1/4 of the boat and that's fine for me(I'm 5'11") so if I can get it so it hits me 3" above the knee that would be perfect because I like being close to the water. But if I had to do a MA style cap to get the gunwale height I need I would skip the whole project. It's my opinion the 20sf is easily the prettiest sharpest cleanest lines of a SeaCraft with the 23sf being a close second. A 25 nose seems to have a prettier look than a 23 more like a 20 unless it's an optical illusion. If I couldn't do a flush cap safely then I would skip the whole project. How much prettier would an old mako or dusky...etc. of been with a flush cap. Anyone have a height measurement from floor to rubrail on a 25 and 23sf?

[kerneltugboat]

You may want to keep an eye out for an older 27. I have a 1969 27' converted to a CC/Pilot House, Jackshated to a VP D6. My boat did not have a cap and with my floor placement I have about 25" to the gunnel in the back, less up front with my casting deck, but I may remove part of the casting deck this year to have more gunnel up front for the kids and to make my Tuna coffin a little shorter in height. I will leave a little step up front for casting my nets as you have mentioned. Mine has the 9' 6" beam and with the heavy diesel in the center (CG) it is amazing in any sea.

Dan

[workinpr0gress]

Thanks for the input kerneltugboat that hull seems to wide for what I want. If I could cut the stringers down on a 25 and drop the floor 1" to 1 1/2" maybe curve the edge of the cap where it meets the rubrail to a 3/4 rise in towards the cockpit, add a toerail and make it self bailing with a bracket and a 1000lb. of motors. I need to do some real research and sit down with a couple old salt friends/mentors.

[Bigshrimpin]

Thanks for the input kerneltugboat that hull seems to wide for what I want. If I could cut the stringers down on a 25 and drop the floor 1" to 1 1/2" maybe curve the edge of the cap where it meets the rubrail to a 3/4 rise in towards the cockpit, add a toerail and make it self bailing with a bracket and a 1000lb. of motors. I need to do some real research and sit down with a couple old salt friends/mentors.

Bruce - The 25 is only 8ft wide. Also . . . IMO there is no need to cut down stringers on that boat at all. It's a super deep cockpit. The cap and a section of floor would be the only places that you would need to modify to turn that beast into a CC. It's fiberglass . . . so there is no reason that you couldn't make the gunnel cap look exactly like the a 23cc cap.

[workinpr0gress]

Bruce - The 25 is only 8ft wide. Also . . . IMO there is no need to cut down stringers on that boat at all. It's a super deep cockpit. The cap and a section of floor would be the only places that you would need to modify to turn that beast into a CC. It's fiberglass . . . so there is no reason that you couldn't make the gunnel cap look exactly like the a 23cc cap.

Thanks, I know it's only 8' wide that's what I want long and skinny. I was saying I wouldn't want a 9'6" wide hull. I am really curious what the height to the cap/hull joint from the floor would be in last five feet of cockpit.

[cdavisdb]

At the starboard stern corner(where the scupper is), 19 inches from the deck to the screw holes in the rub rail