Just when I thought I was out they pull me back in

[Seacraft84]

Keep your receipts and take pictures off the new stuff and old stuff with dates on the pictures. We just set the stuff beside the motor before changing and take pics and then take pics of the fluid draining. Just to be covered.

[Fr. Frank]

Keep your receipts and take pictures off the new stuff and old stuff with dates on the pictures. We just set the stuff beside the motor before changing and take pics and then take pics of the fluid draining. Just to be covered.

Good advice.

[bitsamonkey]

Does anyone know anything about yamaha's f100? There's a carbed 2002 for sale at an interesting price. Any issues?

[sidelock]

Originally Posted by 76Red18

Got to love those 76 18's! Can't wait to see some numbers and pics. Check that front fish box drain. They have a habit of leaking between the outer flange and hull.

Can you please elaborate or explain ? I'm in the process of finalizing a deal on a 1975 potter 18 and it's been an ongoing learning process. Every time I open this site, I learn something new.I have learned more about boats on this site in the past few weeks than I have in my entire life but I'm still a newbie and sometimes need a little explaining to understand . Don't quite understand what you mean about "the outer flange & the hull"

[76Red18]

Your front box should drain through a "Thru Hull Fitting"; A threaded pipe that has a flange on the outside hull surface and a nut that tightens on the surface of the fish box.

The fish box, the deck and the interior sides are the "Liner". The liner is attached to the hull in certian structural areas not the entire hull. The area of the fish box drain has a block of wood between the liner and the hull so the thru hull fitting can be tightened enough to not leak. If there was nothing solid in that area, tightening that fitting would break the liner.

Over time that wood block rots away and the fitting becomes loose and leaks water into the bilge between the hull and thru hull fitting flange. The fix is to remove the thru hill fitting. Use a wood chisle to remove the rotted wood. Use an epoxy filler in place of the rotted wood. Redrill the hole Put a bead of 5200 sealant on the flange and install the thru hull fitting. Put some 5200 on nut to seal the fish box.

I would check the thru hulls "Scuppers" in the transom as well. Stay away from the plastic thru hull fittings. Use bronze or stainless.

[sidelock]

Originally Posted by 76Red18

Your front box should drain through a "Thru Hull Fitting"; A threaded pipe that has a flange on the outside hull surface and a nut that tightens on the surface of the fish box.

The fish box, the deck and the interior sides are the "Liner". The liner is attached to the hull in certian structural areas not the entire hull. The area of the fish box drain has a block of wood between the liner and the hull so the thru hull fitting can be tightened enough to not leak. If there was nothing solid in that area, tightening that fitting would break the liner.

Over time that wood block rots away and the fitting becomes loose and leaks water into the bilge between the hull and thru hull fitting flange. The fix is to remove the thru hill fitting. Use a wood chisle to remove the rotted wood. Use an epoxy filler in place of the rotted wood. Redrill the hole Put a bead of 5200 sealant on the flange and install the thru hull fitting. Put some 5200 on nut to seal the fish box.

I would check the thru hulls "Scuppers" in the transom as well. Stay away from the plastic thru hull fittings. Use bronze or stainless.

Where do you access the block of wood to chisel it out, through the actual thru hull hole? and from which side ,the fish box side or the hull's exterior skin skin ? Sorry about my lack of proper nautical terminology .

[FishStretcher]

Originally Posted by bitsamonkey

Does anyone know anything about yamaha's f100? There's a carbed 2002 for sale at an interesting price. Any issues?

I have one, as do others. Great mileage. 5+ MPG. Light motor. With a stern lifting 4 blade prop expect to top out at 33-35MPH. I like it a lot.

[Mikem8560]

Originally Posted by 76Red18

The area of the fish box drain has a block of wood between the liner and the hull so the thru hull fitting can be tightened enough to not leak. If there was nothing solid in that area, tightening that fitting would break the liner.

in the transom as well. Stay away from the plastic thru hull fittings. Use bronze or stainless.

good to know I replaced the trhru hull on my 20 and saw no rotton wood in the hole and was able to get a good tight fit of the hull and box.

[bitsamonkey]

As a compulsive lurker yet casual poster, I need to update this thread:

I got the boat "done" around October and have about 50 hrs on it now. The suzuki has been great so far. I top out at 38 mph on the rev limiter at 6300 rpm with a 3x14x18 suzuki stainless prop and cruise at 28 mph at about 4900-5000 rpm. I had a 14x19 aluminum prop that cruised 28 mph at about 4500, but would only hit 5500-5600 rpm. Fuel consumption is extremely low, I could get close to 7 mpg with that 14x19 prop. I've got the nmea2000 hooked to a garmin 740 and get very acurate fuel flow rates. Right now, I'd say I average close to 6 mpg. The boat balances very nicely, planes out flat, and does not porpoise. I have volvo ql tabs and they work great. I would say tabs are a must if you plan on running an 18 or 20 in anything over a small chop. First time out I was actually pretty ecstatic with the performance of the motor after having taken a $8,000 gamble on wether or not it would be enough power for that hull. At no point does the boat feel under powered. The stainless prop has some small vents and gets the boat on plane very quickly even with a full 30 gallon livewell and two people. In rough water it has plenty of poke to climb swells and allows you to drive the boat. I really couldn't be more pleased.

[bitsamonkey]

Here are a couple of pic's. I'll do a proper photo shoot next time I'm out.