To Vent or not to vent. That is the question.

[Bushwacker]

Big Lew is absolutely right - All Moesly/Potter vintage SeaCrafts ventilate the bilge BECAUSE OF THE FUEL TANKS! One of the early Potter brochures said it cost them more to do that, but was required because they didn't foam in the fuel tanks, as was done on cheaper boats! (All knowledgeable surveyors agree that foaming in the fuel tank is a BAD idea, as the foam can hold moisture against the aluminum, greatly increasing corrosion rate!) Moesly had it right. Ventilating the bilge will prolong the life of everything in there - tanks, wiring, decks, etc.

[76Red18]

Big Lew is absolutely right - All Moesly/Potter vintage SeaCrafts ventilate the bilge BECAUSE OF THE FUEL TANKS! One of the early Potter brochures said it cost them more to do that, but was required because they didn't foam in the fuel tanks, as was done on cheaper boats! (All knowledgeable surveyors agree that foaming in the fuel tank is a BAD idea, as the foam can hold moisture against the aluminum, greatly increasing corrosion rate!) Moesly had it right. Ventilating the bilge will prolong the life of everything in there - tanks, wiring, decks, etc.

Not the 18's Denny. Their tanks are in an unvented box below deck. Seems kind of strange to not vent a sealed compartment containing a fuel tank. When I installed a 60 gallon tank, I cut out the front wall of the compartment to accept the longer tank. Should I vent my hull? The bilge does have a wet, musty smell to it.

[Seacraft84]

All are good points but for me I would remove the vents. It looks alot cleaner to me. There were to many times when I had my 23' that the bow would push through waves and if there were vents there, would have taken on water. From the factory there is foam on the outside of the stringers and to me the vents would just keep getting this foam wet. Also you would want to make sure there is a way for the water to drain into the bilge from the outside of the stringer if not the water would stay between the stringer and the outside of the hull. Now I do understand they help keep the bilge dry and everything when it is on the trailer or at dock but my Master Angler did not have vents and the floor lasted 34 years. And really the biggest concern with my floor was it had broke loss from the stringers.

[Bushwacker]

Hi Richard,

What can I say, I'm not too familiar with the 18's, but they and the 23's were strictly a Potter design; Moesly was not involved with them. As for adding vents, it probably wouldn't hurt anything, might even help. Might be able to use the scoops up on the gunnel like on the Seafari, with the hoses from there down into the bilge. Stbd side scoop faces forward, port side scoop faces aft. Denny

[strick]

There were to many times when I had my 23' that the bow would push through waves and if there were vents there, would have taken on water.

Are you saying that this did happen or could have happened?

I honestly cant remember anyone that has sunk their boat or complained of major problems from water getting in the bilge due to the forward vents. The main reason I put them back on my 23 was because I got lazy and did not feel like doing the extra glass work required to fill them. I never had a problem with mildew in the bilge on my 23.

My 20 has no vents and if I do not keep the hatches open when not in use then I get lots of mildew in the bilge. The bilge needs ventilation as mentioned earlier due to gas vapors weather IO or outboard IMHO. I also don't like the way they look but what the heck we cant have everything want...... can we?

strick

[Bigshrimpin]

It takes a 700+lbs tuna hanging on a Tee top, 3 knuckle heads on the wrong side of the boat, and a pair of twin suzuki's to put those rear vents underwater. I vote for leaving the vents open.

[Capt Chuck]

All are good points but for me I would remove the vents. It looks alot cleaner to me. There were to many times when I had my 23' that the bow would push through waves and if there were vents there, would have taken on water.

It appears a dead horse is being whacked here

But let me just mention a few points to ponder. I have been reading these "to vent-not to vent" scenarios on this website for 9 years. It appears people are (1) afraid of taking on water that will sink their SeaCraft or (2) they don't like the looks of them. I have crossed the South Fla Gulf Stream in some very snotty seas, which made me nervous but I have a lot of confidence in my SeaCraft's integrity. I never took swamping amounts of water thru them. I would just slow down and manage them not fight them . Any size boat can sink given the right conditions. The picture below shows a wrong decision by the boat's captain. You should be enjoying your boats by fishing & cruising, NOT putting your family, friends and yourself at risk! Check the weather before you pack up and ship out. It is not hard for me to say "Well the weather is deteriating and I'm calling it quits"

As far as the backing down issue, I must admit that I can back down slowly without an issue since I enclosed the transom and added the bracket but when fishing I still put the angler on the bow and follow the fish (remembering the 400lb Class Blue we caught a few years back)

BTW: If you decide to remove the vents because you want that clean look, you can always cut in a flush vent thru the inner liner into the vent channels up under the cap and still get some ventilation down into the bilge.

Just my thoughts & enjoy your SeaCrafts!!

Don't do this in your SeaCraft, It just proves how stupid you are



Don't back down if your catching large gamefish, if possible put the angler up on the bow

[eggsuckindog]

Capt chuck I believe that is the whole purpose of the CC design to begin with - the reason bigger boats back down is they have no bow to fish out of. A 23 ft boat is manuverable enough to chase a fish much easier than backing down on them, people watch too much TV.

The vents were probably a manufacturing issue - just put them in all the boats was easier than figuring out the power option it would have, as they are needed in I/O and inboard.

[Seacraft84]

I guess it must of just been my 23' that had water come up the side of the boat and hit the rubrail. The chines must not of been doing there job.

How about all the foam that is not in the stringers and is under the floor? Wouldn't it get wet when water enters the vents? That is probably where alot of the odor and were some mildew comes from. I know when I dug out my foam it was wet and stunck.

And no I dont think a boat will sink beacuse it has vents in it.

I bet the reason alot of boats that get restored still have the vents are people that dont feel like messing with it. You would either have to remove the top cap or liner or cut a hole in the liner, in order to get to the back of where the vent is, to properly glass behind it.

Like I said, me personally, I would not have the vents and would not buy a restored one with the vents in place.

[KenB]

I bet the reason alot of boats that get restored still have the vents are people that dont feel like messing with it. You would either have to remove the top cap or liner or cut a hole in the liner, in order to get to the back of where the vent is, to properly glass behind it.

Hmm... seems pretty simple to me.
1) remove the vent covers
2) prep inner surface (i.e. sand and then wipe down with solvent). Specifically, the inner surface of the hull around the ends of the cutout.
3) resin/epoxy tape inside each end of the hole. let this cure. In another words, stick some glass tape to the inside of the hull, so you have a tab you can stick the rest of your stuff too.
4) with cabosil/fillet, stick on a replacement piece of glass, precut to fit inside the cutout.
5) Cabosil around the edges.
6) 6 oz or 10 oz glass over the whole thing.
7) fair and paint.