A little lot of Karma. or re birth of a 20 - Page 2

Seacraft84 · #11 10-31-2011, 08:56 AM

Me I like the weight of the plywood. Definatly a difference from what I have seen riding in the ocean. I wish at times I had more weight and bigger tabs to keep the boat in the water.
It seems these composites work good for transoms, but for the floor it seems not to hold screws for the t-top and console very good. They strip out easily and get wollerded out over time. Especially if you tighten them down.

BTW i love that crown in the transom. Are you going to keep the liner out the back part of the boat? How do you plan to run the cables and wires to and through the transom?

bly · #12 10-31-2011, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seacraft84

Me I like the weight of the plywood. Definatly a difference from what I have seen riding in the ocean. I wish at times I had more weight and bigger tabs to keep the boat in the water.
It seems these composites work good for transoms, but for the floor it seems not to hold screws for the t-top and console very good. They strip out easily and get wollerded out over time. Especially if you tighten them down.

BTW i love that crown in the transom. Are you going to keep the liner out the back part of the boat? How do you plan to run the cables and wires to and through the transom?

On the plywood difference? I have worked on a few regulators and they have probably the best general ride reputation out there. Yes I did find a little plywood where they said there was none?? But not much. and used for stupid things. I even took pictures of it and the balsa wood deck rotted out on a 03 I believe regulator. Maybe it was an 01.

on the controls to the OB
If I get a chance I will post pictures of my boat with the same set up.

On the penske board holding screws yes it is a bit weak in that area. It makes a little more work but after fitting and drilling all hinges and hardware before painting I drill out bigger and refill all screw holes with epoxy and filler . Then redrill small again and install screws that will then have no trouble staying put. There are only two things I do not like about penske coosa board. holding screws . Which I know how to remedy. And the little glass fibers in the foam are a pain in the arse to work with, with out gloves and dust mask. Other then that? I have found it is a product made for boats after my friend cut it on his water jet table and I found no water signs after!!! They claim that if a plain sheet with No resin in the pours of the surface were emersed in water for an extended time?? It can only absorb 5 % of its weight. I will bet a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 is not even 25lbs.. So maybe a one and a third pound gain possible in the worse case. I have handled a lot of 3/4 wet plywood and it probably doubles in weight when wet. Maybe more.

Blue_Heron · #13 11-01-2011, 05:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bly

I will bet a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 is not even 25lbs....

How much does a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 Coosa cost?

Dave

bly · #14 11-01-2011, 06:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blue_Heron

How much does a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 Coosa cost?

Dave

a little less then 200 a sheet. It seems to never loose its shape as far as if you store it not perfectly flat. It always stays dimensionally the same even when stored on edge leaning against the wall. Try that with plywood. It will not crush either. I drove my diesel truck over a piece with one 1708 on each side and it did not crush like balsa or divinycel does if you use it where cleats go and pull the bolts down tight.

Seacraft84 · #15 11-01-2011, 10:11 AM

Thats a pretty good idea using the epoxy. I was goin to use some of that stuff for my floor but did some samples and just could not see it being as strong.
The 3/4 okume i used was about $70/sheet. 3 sheets for the floor and 2 for the transom.
Thats about $350 for okume which is used in about all your custom carolina boats. The stuff will never rot, properly treated. Yeah maybe 30 years down the road you may have to address it.
And about $1000 for composite sheets.
Thats alot of money. But if money is no object, then hey.

About how much freeboard are you going to have at the transom?

Blue_Heron · #16 11-01-2011, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bly

a little less then 200 a sheet.

That's not too bad. Is that for the Bluewater 20 or 26? Thinking of materials for my next project.
Dave

workinpr0gress · #17 11-01-2011, 04:22 PM

It's a bit more cost, and plywood; marine or not, when using epoxy is tried and true but new wood alternatives are getting used in all kind of stuff. You just have to put more thought into screws, bolts. The other thing is the cost would be so much more seen when doing it yourself. When having someone else do the work, well let's just say," labor is gonna be a bit more.". I think of all the foam core, coosa, penske and balsa, on some high end customs, wow! Skim coatings of s-glass, whole composite salon houses, composite bulkheads.

bly · #18 11-01-2011, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seacraft84

Thats a pretty good idea using the epoxy. I was goin to use some of that stuff for my floor but did some samples and just could not see it being as strong.
The 3/4 okume i used was about $70/sheet. 3 sheets for the floor and 2 for the transom.
Thats about $350 for okume which is used in about all your custom carolina boats. The stuff will never rot, properly treated. Yeah maybe 30 years down the road you may have to address it.
And about $1000 for composite sheets.
Thats alot of money. But if money is no object, then hey.

About how much freeboard are you going to have at the transom?

It is 18 inches at the transom but on the side at the original cap. What is a standard C craft freeboard on the side? Now that it will be a 3 piece construction instead of the original 2 piece that did not allow you to lean against the inside gunnel before your toes and feet hit first. Not to argue your use of Okume plywood if done properly. But did you factor in the cost of epoxy and time!! involved compared to using either cheaper vinylester or even much cheaper polyester resin with penske board. Also the glass is much more expensive. 1708 or even mat that is not stitch mat or even binder that will dissolve with epoxy is very hard to find and is always more money. the 20 grade is more then enough for decks. The guy that supplies me with the penske board used to repair the decks of the commercial fishing boats that have a non steel deck out of barnegat light. He perfected the use of penske over formerly plywood with a longer life then the wood that was used before.

bly · #19 11-01-2011, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blue_Heron

That's not too bad. Is that for the Bluewater 20 or 26? Thinking of materials for my next project.
Dave

the decks the 20 is more then enough.One more thing to ad in using penske over okume plywood. To bond properly to wood you should use a thinner viscosity epoxy and always put a resin coat on first. With the penske it will bond with polyester or vinylester resin with out the wet out coat process and time.

Seacraft84 · #20 11-01-2011, 08:54 PM

Yeah just polyester resin and 1708 is all I have used on my last two boats. Used epoxy for fillers and what not.
I believe its 20" on 20sf and 24" on MA. We were able to pull the cap up alittle and get some more freeboard. I had raised my floor a total of 5" from top of factory to top of new floor and was about to pull the cap up another 1" so I still have 20" at the stern. Your right about the liner for the back. Definatly will feel alot wider.
I kinda wish I would have splurged and maybe done a composite transom on my last MA cause 30-40lbs in the rear of these boats is actually alot.