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#11
01-18-2012, 10:46 AM
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Strick,
A few questions: The spilt mold would leave me with a seam that would have to be faired etc, right ? If I decided not to use gelcoat, what would you put down first as a base ? Just two layers of 1.5 oz mat would do it ? Not familiar with core cell, but would I put down the two layers of 1.5 oz, then core cell and then more mat on top of that ? Would I have to weigh down the core cell on each side till cure ? So, one side of mold at a time ? Lastly, what do you use to create the radius' inside the mold ? Clay, cabosil, other ? Thanks - Alan 
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#12
01-18-2012, 10:48 AM
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Strick,
A few questions: The spilt mold would leave me with a seam that would have to be faired etc, right ? If I decided not to use gelcoat, what would you put down first as a base ? Just two layers of 1.5 oz mat would do it ? Not familiar with core cell, but would I put down the two layers of 1.5 oz, then core cell and then more mat on top of that ? Would I have to weigh down the core cell on each side till cure ? So, one side of mold at a time ? Lastly, what do you use to create the radius' inside the mold ? Clay, cabosil, other ? Thanks - Alan
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#13
01-18-2012, 11:08 PM
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You may be able to hide the seam with clay and get away without having to fair it if you decide to go with Gel. I like to use duratec sanding primer which is a two part primer that is easy to sand to a nice finish. You can Awlgrip over it easily.
The seat boxes I did on the 25 seafari have the following: 2 layers of 1.5 oz matt 1 layer 1708 3/8 core cell 1 layer of 1780 They are very strong, solid, and light. When you put down you core you are going to want to putty in between the gaps around the coreing prior to the last lay up. Unless you vacuum bag you will have to weigh out each side like you eluded to. There are lots of tricks for the radius. I have used clay, bondo. cabosil/microballoons, pour foam. For larger radius's clay is impractical so you are going to have to get creative. strick
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#16
01-19-2012, 11:13 AM
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looks like the core cell was stapled down in the image above. I carved out foam and glued it in place then cabosiled over it and sanded smooth for the big radius's....lots of work but came out nice in the end.
Last edited by strick; 01-19-2012 at 11:23 AM.
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#17
01-19-2012, 06:13 PM
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For one off construction I'm not convinced its easier to build a mold and then core the part vs. build the part and then laminate it.
I would be mighty happy to have Capt. Cabo's glassed wood console and post on my skiff... 
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#18
01-20-2012, 02:21 AM
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Quote:
That consel looks great. I'm sure he has his methods down to a science and can whip out one of those fairly fast and make it look good. Having done it both ways many times over myself I have come to the conclusion that I get a better part with a one off mold. Better meaning a lighter, stronger laminate, and a much smoother finish to work with. If you can keep complications such as alligators down to a minimum then it will be faster. Keep in mind that with a mold you are glassing in one direction and thus building a TRUE laminate. With the glass over wood method you are using glass to hold together the wood. You have to glass both the inside and out side of the finished part to make it strong....thus you are glassing in two directions. Anything with a wood core is going to be much heavier then using foam core products. Lastly I feel that glassing over wood to make a part shows a lack intuition on the builders behalf... in other words it's for sissies that are not smart enough to make a mold  Just kidding of course Sean. strick
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