Teak finish ?

[gofastsandman]

Originally Posted by countshock

Epifanes. I've been taking care of boats for a living for many years. There's lots of varnish substitutes out there, but none of them really hold a candle to a "proper" varnish job. You simply have to do the work and get enough coats on there. Of course, on my personal boat, I just let it grey.

Check out the Epifanes site. Lots of good info. Take notes and then write down Q`s and then call them. They are very helpful.

[Bushwacker]

Originally Posted by sidelock

Picked up a can of Epifanes woodfinish gloss . I like the siplicity of being able to use it right out of the can & not having to mix a two part solution & the fact that no sanding is required between coats. Having said that , when I got I did notice that the directions on the can do state that the first coat should be thinned 25% & additional coats 5%. How crucial is thinning it out ? I've got the doors sanded down to bare wood.

I followed those directions to the letter and have had good results so I'd recommend you do the same. I did wet sand between coats, I think with 220 grit.

[uncleboo]

I agree with Denny on the epifanes. I, too , followed the directions to the tee last year and got fantastic results. All my teak still looks like it did when I finished it. remember that this teak is 36 years old.

[uncleboo]

I need to clarify that the rod holders on the side of the console, less the spacer, and the rear hatches are the original teak. The other stuff is new brazilian teak finished the same way.

[bigeasy1]

Another vote for the Epifanes.very high quality and available in gloss and satin.They also make a ery high quality two part urethane similar to Imron.I painted my boat with it and it looks as good now as it did four years ago when I did it.Did what little teak I have left in my boat with their gloss wood finish and it's still in great condition.

http://www.epifanes.com/home.htm

[abl1111]

I was waiting for that. I let mine grey as well. I clean it with sudsy ammonia and a brush - scrubbing across the grain of the wood - 1-2 times a season. I also wash it with saltwater as often as possible to keep it in the brine.

It really stays a nice color of grey.

The only thing that I don't like is that after a long winter, a good amount of wood pulp comes off with even light scrubbing - I assume from the elements, and with a varnish job, the wood could stay the same thickness for a much longer time.

However, keeping up with varnish, properly, can be a PITA... For example - picture having to re-do your teak doors. Yuck !

[gofastsandman]

Originally Posted by Bushwacker

I followed those directions to the letter and have had good results so I'd recommend you do the same. I did wet sand between coats, I think with 220 grit.

Always great stuff.

You only really need to scufff with a light grey pad. Hit with acetone to crack the shell and bond. 1500. Build up is what you want. Pros sand for the first time after 10 coats.

Good tooth at 80 is what you want to start. Call the fine folks in Maine. Ask.

Cheers,
GFS

[Islandtrader]

I read some place that for the best protection if you are using the wood finish gloss that for the ultimate UV protection you should then put 2 coats of clear varnish over the wood finish.

I know for a fact that the Varnish(epifanes) has more UV inhibitors than the wood gloss (I checked with Maine).

[sidelock]

Does anyone know if the original teak was stained ? I sanded one door to bare wood on both sides & sanded the front of the other door to bare wood as well but left the original finish on the back side & just scuffed it . I applied the first two coats of Epifanes wood finish gloss & there is a contrast in color from the original finish. The original wood had a nice , rich reddish tone to it & the new finish is rather brownish.