Anchor roller configuration

[pianewman]

I have a photo of Denny's (Bushwacker) setup, and the anchor pin is not in line with the roller/cleat, but off to one side. This makes sense, to keep the anchor line from chafing on the pin while anchored.
Is the Starboard under the roller necessary? Isn't the deck properly supported from underneath with the 2 triangles of 3/4" plywood?
I'm doing the same project on my '71 Seafari, but discovered the balsa core is completely shot (NO wood in a 20" diameter circle around the anchor line pipe), so I'm fixing that first (scored coosa per: Islandtrader's advice). Then I'll follow your lead, although I'll epoxy two or three 1/4" plywood triangle's underneath. I believe I'll need the flex of the 1/4" to maintain the original crown, so I'll glue them up one at a time.
Any advice welcome. Thanks.

[Bushwacker]

Originally Posted by jondavies

. . .

I'm wondering what's the best configuration for the locking pin for the anchor chain and the cleat (cleat before the pin or vice versa?). And is it best to place them all on the centerline or should the cleat go laterally on the surface above the anchor locker?

I'd appreciate any input.

Here's the post I made a few years ago of how I installed the anchor bracket: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...anchor+bracket

I originally had that bayonet pin arrangement but didn't like it because unless you get it installed in the EXACT right position, the anchor won't be held tight in the bracket and will rattle. I used a bungee chord to keep it tight, but that was sort of a half-ass solution; bungee chords don't hold up long to So. Fla. UV but at least the cheap rubber coated hooks didn't have much time to rust! Here's the new chain lock I recently installed that works much better . . . it's adjustable, so easy to get just the right amount of tension on chain, which also keeps chain from slapping up and down on the deck!

[Bryan A.]

Bushwacker - You got a link to that tensioner?

I have one similiar that I installed on my boat but that one looks stouter with a pin. Never saw one like that. Not totally impressed with mine.

Thanks.

[Bushwacker]

It's made by Lewmar, http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...7#.UZ7Lu0CTiSo Got mine from West Marine because I wanted it quick, but you might be able to find it cheaper online, etc. It's a big improvement over my original setup!

[pianewman]

I've searched, and surprisingly, WestMarine has the best price!

[pianewman]

Originally Posted by abl1111

Agreed with comments. Light goes bye-bye. New ones on port and starboard.

I supported my cantilever anchor roller with (2) 3/4" pcs of glued-up plywood under the deck. Shaped to the bow shape. I used a bottle jack to hold it place while I mounted the anchor roller and the windlass - then drilled thru... Even if you're not going to use a windlass, I'd still put the same support underneath.

The previous owner of my Seafari glassed in the anchor locker bulkhead, and the opening is small enough to limit my working access to the front of the bow deck. Yes, I can get a plywood plate up there, but slathering it with epoxy, positioning it correctly, supporting it...it'll be quite a challenge.

Someone recommended I use a piece of 1/4" aluminum as a backing plate, double the width of the roller and cleat, through bolting the roller and cleat. Wouldn't I want a larger piece of aluminum, and is this even a good idea?

Thoughts on this as a solution?

[abl1111]

It's a be'atch to get in there no matter what. Don't know you're situation, but what I did has held up for 10 years.

I'd bust my butt to make it happen, dry fit all to perfection first. Maybe pre-drill holes thru the support wood. Use a bunch of that that really good 3M plastic velcro to hold the wood in place. Screw from underneath, thru the predrilled holes into the bottom decks balsa - but not up thru top deck. Do this in a few places. This should hold your support wood in place. Then drill thru template from the top thru the deck and the support plywood. IMPORTANT - Try to drill 90 degree holes - us a jig if you have to. Otherwise the windlass bolts go in cock-eyed and create a PITA ! From below remove 'holder screws', remove 'velcro' - slather plywood with thick epoxy or 5200 - re-drill holder screws to hold wood in place. Mount windlass with bolts/nuts. When done remove holder screws.

Tough job but once it's done it's done. Then go drink some beer to help all the aches and bruises you have. Clean your scraped and bloody forearms and fingers. Tomorrow will be a new day : )

[pianewman]

I'm not installing a windlass. Does that change your sadistic recommendation that I need to do what you did? (can't find a smilie to go here!!!)
My plan was to duplicate bushwacker's install, straight line from roller to cleat, chain tensioner to the side. I'd think most my stress will be fore-aft, and rather far forward, right?
Thanks for the reply.

[abl1111]

Oops sorry. Just like school - never payed much attention !

In that case - I don't know. I always err on the side of over-built. I would definitely use a back plate of some sort. For example, I'm installing a removable backrest on my i/o engine cover. Even though it's cored with balsa or ply, I'll be installing a backing plate and that's a hell of a lot less pressure than what an anchor roller will give.

Just don't know if your set-up needs to be as robust as what I did for the windlass. BTW - I love the windlass ! My set-up is awesome. I almost never have to go up on deck to clear up anything. Sure you don't want to change your mind ? I try to keep things as simple as possible - I never wanted a windlass, but the Tsunami design dictated it. Never regretted it !

[pianewman]

With the use this boat will get, a windlass is excessive. I'm also guilty of over-building, but this time, the inconvenience of real pain in the design/install is what's slowing me down.
Thanks for the continued thoughts.