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#1
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If there is a crack....get more than one layer over it. Now is the time. Your wide open and clean. I would build out 4 layers over the damage. Then re-skin the center if you want.
There are some real glassin experts on here. I hope they chime in.
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__________________________________________________ ________________ 1974 23SF |
#2
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I don't know if there is a crack. Its not obvious. In the front area it looks like erosion from repeated beaching but water was dripping slowly about 3 feet from the transom right at the keel. There is a piece of 2 inch really light cloth tape covering an area about 3 feet long. Your probably right in that I should add more. I do plan on adding 2 layers from the outside all the way front to back using epoxy. Would 2 layers inside and 2 outside be good? I've read some of the threads about cracks in this spot. I actually just almost bought a 2002 angler 20 footer with a crack in the keel for $1500 knowing I could fix it but I just don't have the space or time for it.
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1971 Potter built center console. |
#3
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thehermit is right. Now's the time to do it. Make sure you know what you've got, and don't put a bandaid on it that you'll regret later. Dave
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Blue Heron Boat Works Reinventing the wheel, one spoke at a time. |
#4
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__________________________________________________ ________________ 1974 23SF |
#5
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That sounds like good advice. I had planned to grind the whole keel anyway and lay some glass on it so perhaps I should do it before I attack the inside. I did already grind the inside before I laid that piece of glass and did not notice anything major but perhaps the underside will tell more. I have to grind off that old repair anyway. I will do so and report back with pictures. Any damage to the keel will get repaired with epoxy for a worry free repair. Im using vinyl ester everywhere else but I think the keel is worthy of the strongest materials possible. Even though this boat will never see seas over a foot while in my care. Lol.
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1971 Potter built center console. |
#6
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Good luck
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#7
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Put a teak steering pod on the back and it will free up a lot of space..that would make a nice console. I built my own console from scratch. Good luck and keeps the pics coming
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#8
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Vinylester is epoxy. And the low viscosity stuff you have- Vipel F010 (right??) will likely get in a crack as well as or better than a thick epoxy (like what you get from West System). Everything I can find shows BETTER mechanicals than something like West System- strength and elongation. Different hardener systems, but both epoxies. So I'd be comfortable with what you have, personally.
For the keel- yeah, fix it now. Lots of layers, getting progressively wider. I have some biax and DBM left over if you want to try something different. And I think some kevlar woven roving. That might be interesting on the outer layer. It will take you a week to cut it. ![]() With respect to the white looking glass: Maybe you got bad/ no sizing on the glass, or it got dirty/oily or a silicone on it? |
#9
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vinylester is about as far away from epoxy as you are from Mars.
Epoxy is not in anyway in the "ester" family. |
#10
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Epoxies come in many forms. The aliphatic amine ones that most people here know, I know there are aromatics and more. But the data sheet for the product in question is clear- it is an epoxy. Specifically a DGEBA epoxy with styrene. West system is also a DGEBA epoxy. So is the stuff they line soda cans with. That is the bisphenol-A that people worry about.
I am not a polymer chemist, nor did I sleep at a holiday inn express last night. I had a few college classes on this 20 years ago. But the data sheets seem pretty clear. |
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