Classic SeaCraft Community  

Go Back   Classic SeaCraft Community > Recovered Threads
FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 09-29-2014, 06:26 PM
thehermit thehermit is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Chatham, MA
Posts: 777
Default

If there is a crack....get more than one layer over it. Now is the time. Your wide open and clean. I would build out 4 layers over the damage. Then re-skin the center if you want.

There are some real glassin experts on here. I hope they chime in.
__________________
__________________________________________________ ________________
1974 23SF
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-29-2014, 09:40 PM
Basketcase Basketcase is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Southern NH
Posts: 198
Default

I don't know if there is a crack. Its not obvious. In the front area it looks like erosion from repeated beaching but water was dripping slowly about 3 feet from the transom right at the keel. There is a piece of 2 inch really light cloth tape covering an area about 3 feet long. Your probably right in that I should add more. I do plan on adding 2 layers from the outside all the way front to back using epoxy. Would 2 layers inside and 2 outside be good? I've read some of the threads about cracks in this spot. I actually just almost bought a 2002 angler 20 footer with a crack in the keel for $1500 knowing I could fix it but I just don't have the space or time for it.
__________________
1971 Potter built center console.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-30-2014, 07:42 PM
Blue_Heron Blue_Heron is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Gator Country
Posts: 1,416
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Basketcase View Post
I don't know if there is a crack. Its not obvious. In the front area it looks like erosion from repeated beaching but water was dripping slowly about 3 feet from the transom right at the keel...
I think you should investigate the leak and make sure you know what you're dealing with. If it's a screw hole that didn't get patched correctly, that's one thing. If it's a crack that goes entirely through the keel, that's a whole different animal. If it's a through-crack, you want to grind most of the way through the laminate and then build it back to the original thickness. If it's a crack, you'll probably be able to see it as a dark line once you grind through the surface of the laminate.

thehermit is right. Now's the time to do it. Make sure you know what you've got, and don't put a bandaid on it that you'll regret later.
Dave
__________________
Blue Heron Boat Works
Reinventing the wheel, one spoke at a time.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-30-2014, 07:48 PM
thehermit thehermit is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Chatham, MA
Posts: 777
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Basketcase View Post
I don't know if there is a crack. Its not obvious. In the front area it looks like erosion from repeated beaching but water was dripping slowly about 3 feet from the transom right at the keel. There is a piece of 2 inch really light cloth tape covering an area about 3 feet long. Your probably right in that I should add more. I do plan on adding 2 layers from the outside all the way front to back using epoxy. Would 2 layers inside and 2 outside be good? I've read some of the threads about cracks in this spot. I actually just almost bought a 2002 angler 20 footer with a crack in the keel for $1500 knowing I could fix it but I just don't have the space or time for it.
Take a load off your weary feet. Lay on your back and grind out the weepy spot on your keel . Grind off bottom paint and gel coat to see if you have glass damage in that spot.
__________________
__________________________________________________ ________________
1974 23SF
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-30-2014, 10:19 PM
Basketcase Basketcase is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Southern NH
Posts: 198
Default

That sounds like good advice. I had planned to grind the whole keel anyway and lay some glass on it so perhaps I should do it before I attack the inside. I did already grind the inside before I laid that piece of glass and did not notice anything major but perhaps the underside will tell more. I have to grind off that old repair anyway. I will do so and report back with pictures. Any damage to the keel will get repaired with epoxy for a worry free repair. Im using vinyl ester everywhere else but I think the keel is worthy of the strongest materials possible. Even though this boat will never see seas over a foot while in my care. Lol.
__________________
1971 Potter built center console.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 09-30-2014, 12:08 PM
seacraftks seacraftks is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Maine
Posts: 134
Default

Good luck
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-01-2014, 10:41 PM
martin martin is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: panama City Fl.
Posts: 1,061
Default

Put a teak steering pod on the back and it will free up a lot of space..that would make a nice console. I built my own console from scratch. Good luck and keeps the pics coming
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10-02-2014, 11:47 PM
FishStretcher FishStretcher is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Greater Boston
Posts: 1,117
Default

Vinylester is epoxy. And the low viscosity stuff you have- Vipel F010 (right??) will likely get in a crack as well as or better than a thick epoxy (like what you get from West System). Everything I can find shows BETTER mechanicals than something like West System- strength and elongation. Different hardener systems, but both epoxies. So I'd be comfortable with what you have, personally.

For the keel- yeah, fix it now. Lots of layers, getting progressively wider. I have some biax and DBM left over if you want to try something different. And I think some kevlar woven roving. That might be interesting on the outer layer. It will take you a week to cut it.

With respect to the white looking glass: Maybe you got bad/ no sizing on the glass, or it got dirty/oily or a silicone on it?
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 10-11-2014, 07:00 PM
brasuk brasuk is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 3
Default vinylester

vinylester is about as far away from epoxy as you are from Mars.

Epoxy is not in anyway in the "ester" family.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 10-11-2014, 10:52 PM
FishStretcher FishStretcher is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Greater Boston
Posts: 1,117
Default

Epoxies come in many forms. The aliphatic amine ones that most people here know, I know there are aromatics and more. But the data sheet for the product in question is clear- it is an epoxy. Specifically a DGEBA epoxy with styrene. West system is also a DGEBA epoxy. So is the stuff they line soda cans with. That is the bisphenol-A that people worry about.

I am not a polymer chemist, nor did I sleep at a holiday inn express last night. I had a few college classes on this 20 years ago. But the data sheets seem pretty clear.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:39 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
All original content © 2003-2013 ClassicSeacraft