Buying my first Seacraft, how does this one look? - Page 2

Blue_Heron · #11 10-17-2014, 08:39 PM

Take a 4' straight edge with you when you go to look at it. If you can find a 6' straight edge, that's even better. Lay it along the hull bottom just forward of the transom on all six hull panels and look for hook (concavity) in the hull panels. Rumor has it there was a mold being used for the 23s in the late 80s that had a hook on one side. If the starboard panels are consistent with the port side panels, you're good to go. If there's a hook on one side, the boat will heel to the other side when on plane and will be difficult to trim.
Dave

FAS · #12 10-17-2014, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blue_Heron

Take a 4' straight edge with you when you go to look at it. If you can find a 6' straight edge, that's even better. Lay it along the hull bottom just forward of the transom on all six hull panels and look for hook (concavity) in the hull panels. Rumor has it there was a mold being used for the 23s in the late 80s that had a hook on one side. If the starboard panels are consistent with the port side panels, you're good to go. If there's a hook on one side, the boat will heel to the other side when on plane and will be difficult to trim.
Dave

would this hold true on a October 84 build 23 sf?

Blue_Heron · #13 10-17-2014, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FAS

would this hold true on a October 84 build 23 sf?

I've never seen it, but heard it was in the late '80s boats. Easy enough to check with a straight edge.

Yachtie · #14 10-18-2014, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blue_Heron

Take a 4' straight edge with you when you go to look at it. If you can find a 6' straight edge, that's even better. Lay it along the hull bottom just forward of the transom on all six hull panels and look for hook (concavity) in the hull panels. Rumor has it there was a mold being used for the 23s in the late 80s that had a hook on one side. If the starboard panels are consistent with the port side panels, you're good to go. If there's a hook on one side, the boat will heel to the other side when on plane and will be difficult to trim.
Dave

Thanks for that info. I will do that.

flyingfrizzle · #15 10-18-2014, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shine

I would not count on the motor lasting too long,

Just wondering why u say this about the motor? The older mercury 2.4 and 2.5 liter outboards were some of the best motors mercury ever produced. The blocks have been modified and built to turn over 10000 rpms and horse power over 300. Yea it is a older motor and it may cost a little to replace old gas lines and recondition it but it could be a very dependable motor if up dated. It could have way worse power. I would run it till she dies if it don't give you many problems. I'm using a 2.5 on my 20' Seacraft project (newer efi model). A newer 4 stroke would be nice but you can fill that tank many times for what it cost to replace the motor.

Bushwacker · #16 10-18-2014, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blue_Heron

I've never seen it, but heard it was in the late '80s boats. Easy enough to check with a straight edge.

There was 1 mold for the 23 that had a hook in it. Potter supposedly warned SeaCraft Industries about it when they took over his bankrupt operation in 1980 and told them not to use it. However that bad mold was apparently used occasionally during the 1980's because I noticed the hook pictured below when I looked at an 80's vintage 23 Sceptre for a forum member about 6-7 years ago! The most noticeable hook was on the center panel on the port side. There was about a 1/8" gap between my straightedge and the hull about 6" forward of the transom.

Yachtie · #17 10-18-2014, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bushwacker

There was 1 mold for the 23 that had a hook in it. Potter supposedly warned SeaCraft Industries about it when they took over his bankrupt operation in 1980 and told them not to use it. However that bad mold was apparently used occasionally during the 1980's because I noticed the hook pictured below when I looked at an 80's vintage 23 Sceptre for a forum member about 6-7 years ago! The most noticeable hook was on the center panel on the port side. There was about a 1/8" gap between my straightedge and the hull about 6" forward of the transom.

Bringing a straight edge. If I find a gap like that is it worth walking away?

Ryan · #18 10-18-2014, 11:15 PM

At the least use it to work on the price. Honestly I don't think you can buy a 23 cheap enough. I want one very badly but the money it would take to turn one around keeps me a looker and not a taker.

Kudos to you though if you've found a diamond in the rough. If that bracket is done right, floor isn't soft you're doing pretty good.

Bushwacker · #19 10-19-2014, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yachtie

Bringing a straight edge. If I find a gap like that is it worth walking away?

Statistically speaking, I think the chances of any particular 23 having a hook are fairly low, but if it IS one with the hook, as Ryan said, it will provide some leverage to get the price down a bit. It's not a deal killer, as it's easily fixed with a couple of layers of 1708.

Yachtie · #20 10-21-2014, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bushwacker

Statistically speaking, I think the chances of any particular 23 having a hook are fairly low, but if it IS one with the hook, as Ryan said, it will provide some leverage to get the price down a bit. It's not a deal killer, as it's easily fixed with a couple of layers of 1708.

Well. I walked away from it. It's solid but more of a project then I'm honestly ready for.

It did have a hook on the port side. Every panel. Worse then what you pictured.

Some soft spots around the console.

Fuel tank looked rough.

Transom was solid though. Motor runs.