'85 23' Sceptre project - Page 2

FishStretcher · #11 07-25-2016, 11:29 PM

Free advice is worth what you pay for it, so buyer beware.

I'd try to find a plastic fuel tank. Ethanol and water seem to eat so many aluminum tanks.

I'd hold onto the fishwell, but not install it. Install a hatch cover into a glass panel you make. Then see what you like and sell the one you don't want.

And if your fuel tank hatch has a plywood core, rip it out and put nidacore or divinycel in there instead. Weight and rot is the enemy.

Finally, the pro tip I learned here is to embed 100lb braid fishing line in the 3M 4200 or 3M 5200 you use to install the fuel tank hatch so you can remove it reasonably easily in the future.

If the OBs are heavy, you may want to get the batteries forward to compensate, but others here are far more expert on CG location on the cuddy shaped Seacrafts than I am.

Cutiger · #12 07-26-2016, 06:20 AM

Thanks for the tips.

I am not a fan of big plastic tanks. 30 gallons, sure, but not 145. In my opinion a properly prepped and installed aluminum tank is the way to go. Again, just my opinion.

The fuel tank hatch will be recored. Sealing a deck hatch with 5200 would be impossible to remove. 4200 only slightly better but probably still won't come out unscathed. It's screwed down and doesn't need adhesive, just needs to be water tight, and easily removed and reinstalled/sealed for inspection if needed. Silicone caulk for that.

flyingfrizzle · #13 07-26-2016, 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DonV

If my memory is correct the threads in my 225 EFI are metric in the flywheel. It's a piece of cake to make a puller versus buying the Mercury part. However for $23 that's hard to beat.

1 1/2"-16 is the threads on the flywheel center hole, I was going to make one myself a long time ago but my local friend that has a large machine shop didn't even have the odd ball fine thread tap to thread the piece to screw in. Also the cost of the odd 1 1/2" -16 pipe die was too much to make since especially with these ones ebay. I purchased the one like in the link but with the jacking bolt and spacer so I could lift or remove the fly wheel with the same piece. It was only a little more for the extra parts to adapt it into a puller also. Same seller has them both ways. You can always make one that fits the wheels three bolt holes on a spreader bar easily but the ring works much better and for the cost its a no brainer in my opinion...

Outrageous · #14 07-26-2016, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cutiger

Thanks for the tips.

I am not a fan of big plastic tanks. 30 gallons, sure, but not 145. In my opinion a properly prepped and installed aluminum tank is the way to go. Again, just my opinion.

The fuel tank hatch will be recored. Sealing a deck hatch with 5200 would be impossible to remove. 4200 only slightly better but probably still won't come out unscathed. It's screwed down and doesn't need adhesive, just needs to be water tight, and easily removed and reinstalled/sealed for inspection if needed. Silicone caulk for that.

Sika 291 works great!

Cutiger · #15 09-07-2016, 04:18 PM

Progress has been super slow. Engagement party, people in town most weekends during the summer, work 50+ hours a week...ugh. Hadn't touched it in almost 6 weeks.

Finally spent this past labor day weekend getting some work done on it. Finished removing the remaining transom fittings and hardware. Cleaned out the old screw holes and motor mounting holes. Drilled some other test holes to see how shakey the transom core is. Eh, has some bad spots so I injected some penetrating epoxy. Pretty solid overall though. Going to roll with it for now, if I end up falling in love with the hull and ride, as everybody expects to with a SeaCraft, then we can go back and do a full transom, bracket, and newer power later on. Let the penetrating epoxy cure for a day and then filled all those holes with thickened epoxy.

I have the sanding supplies and face mask ready to go to town. The filler/fairing compound and the high build primer should arrive at the house by the time I finish up sanding.

Sorry, no boat pictures...But

I know many of you could be interested in this too. But I sort of impulsively dinged my boat project budget. My original plan was to attempt to flip it for a few bucks, I think it was a great deal. But now only -$700 later I'm not so sure I want to sell it. Serial number dates is to 1917. It's mostly correct, but has been refinished and has an incorrect mainspring housing, so it's not the perfect super high dollar collector that the serious guys are after. Fantastic shape though, and still think $700 is great for a 99 year old, WWI US Gov. 1911.

Cutiger · #16 09-08-2016, 01:22 PM

It's really early on to concern my self with electronics, but couldn't pass the deal. Just picked up the majority of the electronics for the boat. Furuno NavNet VX2 10.4", 24" 36 NM radome, GPS antenna, sounder box, heading sensor, and all the cables (everything minus a transducer and mounting bracket), for $350.

Cutiger · #17 10-24-2016, 08:21 AM

Here and there as I get a few minutes over the past couple of weeks I've been filling nicks and dings and sanding. Finally caught a normal work week and weekend. Primer is on.

Cutiger · #18 11-04-2016, 11:25 PM

Project is still under way. For the sake of time, and my spare time, I've decided to sub out the 'glass work. The hatch recoring is in progress now and I'll be dropping the boat off on Sunday for him to fix the soft spot in the bow and fill in all the helm area. My new 'glass guy does freelance work on the side and has a day job doing 'glass work for a major, big time boat manufacturer in this area who sells boats worldwide. It'll be a quality job.

I've located some 30 gallon plastic barrels and am emptying the tank finally. Have about 60 gallons of trash out of it now and maybe 1/2-3/4" left in the bottom of the tank to try to get so I can start pulling it out when I get the boat back from the 'glass work.

Made progress today, but I'll be spending tomorrow replacing a pool pump, hanging some ceiling fans, installing toilet parts, changing my truck oil, watching the Clemson game, and going to a barbecue bourbon and bluegrass festival. Hence the reason for having someone else do the glassing.

I'd be lying if I said I hadn't considered selling the thing already and going and buying one of these cheap 24 Albemarles that's ready to go today. Time is a precious thing these days

jaythefisherman · #19 02-13-2017, 11:27 AM

not at all just a very smart consumer and excellent idea ,,,,,,will save everyone the price gouging of marinas and ''genuine'' mercury parts that over 90% are manufactured by someone else and probably over half outside the country.......again awesome idea!

John3325 · #20 02-18-2017, 02:10 PM

So I don't mean to hi-jack the thread, but some of the work you have done makes me believe your the guy to ask.

The "lip" that the gas tank deck cover sits on, I am assuming that the tank was put in and the lip was made after.

I too, have a 1986 23 Seacraft Sectpre and took the gas deck cover off of mine as well. I think my tank is good for now, but now that I took it up I was thinking how would I ever get that out with the lip there?

What route are you going to take, or have you taken? Sawzalling the tank scares the crap out of me, even empty. One spark and a gas fume is all you need to have bad news.

I heavily agree with the post above suggesting a plastic tank. It is the only way to go now in my honest opinion, and cost wise is usually the less or same of a replicated fab tank.