1977 SeaCraft Seafari 2006 Etec 150

[Vezo, Part II]

I agree guys. Soon to be step- nephew-in-law has marine business up here and a fork lift. Job just wasn't completed until after dark, evening before a week long trip to HB, with my brother renting a big house there for his family. Tommy (my brother) fortunately convinced me to river test that night, heating everything in a very short run of normal speed. I knew that lowering back to original height was not a reasonable solution, but a lot of tension and rum was involved, and I had never thought that transducer may have been to blame.

Mitch, (FlexPat) called today. A lot of variables. He has convinced me to replace water pump and have code possibly cleared. Then I think I'm going to go back to my favorite performance enhancer. A Bobs Machine Shop 5 in 1 manual jack plate. The ability to dial in perfectly to the correct prop is priceless. I do not want my cav plate even with the keel where the boat will spend the rest of its life, minus gatherings around the state.

Ken, when we get together we'll assess the transducer location. Still open to other ideas.

[kmoose]

Originally Posted by Vezo, Part II

I agree guys. Soon to be step- nephew-in-law has marine business up here and a fork lift. Job just wasn't completed until after dark, evening before a week long trip to HB, with my brother renting a big house there for his family. Tommy (my brother) fortunately convinced me to river test that night, heating everything in a very short run of normal speed. I knew that lowering back to original height was not a reasonable solution, but a lot of tension and rum was involved, and I had never thought that transducer may have been to blame.

Mitch, (FlexPat) called today. A lot of variables. He has convinced me to replace water pump and have code possibly cleared. Then I think I'm going to go back to my favorite performance enhancer. A Bobs Machine Shop 5 in 1 manual jack plate. The ability to dial in perfectly to the correct prop is priceless. I do not want my cav plate even with the keel where the boat will spend the rest of its life, minus gatherings around the state.

Ken, when we get together we'll assess the transducer location. Still open to other ideas.

I'm 50/50 on the ducer being the problem. I agree, until you know for sure the impeller is good it could go either way.

[Bushwacker]

Originally Posted by Vezo, Part II

. . . Mitch, (FlexPat) called today. A lot of variables. He has convinced me to replace water pump and have code possibly cleared. Then I think I'm going to go back to my favorite performance enhancer. A Bobs Machine Shop 5 in 1 manual jack plate. The ability to dial in perfectly to the correct prop is priceless. I do not want my cav plate even with the keel where the boat will spend the rest of its life, minus gatherings around the state. . .

Michael,

Changing the impeller is probably not a bad idea but I'd get the engine manual first to insure that you don't create any new problems. I had to adjust shift cable on mine after dealer did the 3-year service because they didn't check the shift shaft height as specified in manual before reinstalling LU! it's an easy job but there is a new procedure for seating the impeller that supposedly improves wp output. Barnacle Bill knows about it and will explain it to you if you buy the parts from him.

I would NOT install a jack plate however! Your motor is already too heavy for the boat, and a jack plate just makes the aft CG shift even worse! Capt. Terry is running basically the same motor (he has the HO version) on the same boat and his AV plate is on top of the water when it's 1 hole above flush with bottom, so about 3/4" up from bottom. So, unlike me, you should be able to raise the motor high enough without a jack plate! That $ would be better spent on a good 4B prop! Denny

[Vezo, Part II]

Excellent suggestion! I'm all ears to be dialed by Scallop fest. Thanks Denny.

[kmoose]

You could also just unbolt the ducer and zip tie it up out of the way to be sure it is or is not the issue.

[Capt Terry]

Originally Posted by Bushwacker

Michael,

Capt. Terry is running basically the same motor (he has the HO version) on the same boat and his AV plate is on top of the water when it's 1 hole above flush with bottom, so about 3/4" up from bottom. So, unlike me, you should be able to raise the motor high enough without a jack plate! That $ would be better spent on a good 4B prop! Denny

MInor correction: On my Seafari with ETEC 150 HO, the A/V plate is 1.5" above the keel (the best I can measure it on my Hitchhiker trailer with a thin aluminum strip between the keel and the trailer support). The engine is all the way up, on the 4th (bottom hole) and have about a 2.0" gap between the engine and the top of the transom. At 30 mph Skippertee recently observed my A/V plate as just right. I am running a 13.5" dia prop, a five blade QST5 which provided the steadiest wakeboard speed and about 5700 WOT RPM.

[Bushwacker]

Originally Posted by Capt Terry

MInor correction: On my Seafari with ETEC 150 HO, the A/V plate is 1.5" above the keel (the best I can measure it on my Hitchhiker trailer with a thin aluminum strip between the keel and the trailer support). The engine is all the way up, on the 4th (bottom hole) and have about a 2.0" gap between the engine and the top of the transom. At 30 mph Skippertee recently observed my A/V plate as just right. I am running a 13.5" dia prop, a five blade QST5 which provided the steadiest wakeboard speed and about 5700 WOT RPM.

Terry - thanks for correcting me! I forgot you raised the motor another hole after our initial discussion on motor height. Sounds like Michael should be able to run with his AV plate at 1.5" above keel!

Michael - got back home today and checked service manual regarding S.A.F.E. (Speed Adjusting Failsafe Electronics) mode and recovery etc. The EMM will activate SAFE mode if either the EMM or Port or Stbd cylinder head temp is above expected range (Code 25, 43, or 69 respectively). Once the sensor is within limits and RPM is reduced to idle, engine operation will return to normal, so you don't need the diagnostic software or have to see dealer to recover from SAFE mode. However, the EMM will go into SHUTDOWN mode with certain faults, such as excessive EMM or engine temperature, a NO OIL condition, or high RPM at low throttle position. (Codes 29,31, 33, and 57 respectively) For a code 29 or 31, the motor will not restart until that sensor cools down, but if it was shutdown for a code 33 or 57, the code must be cleared with the diagnostic software and the key turned off and on before motor will restart.

For further diagnostics, there are 4 red LED's on the stbd side of the EMM at the bottom center, just forward of the largest of the 3 wiring plugs. (You'll have to pull the black plastic shroud around flywheel on top of motor to see the EMM.) The EMM checks all the circuits and sensors every time you turn the key on, while your System Check Tach should be beeping and flashing lights. LED 1 (aft most light) monitors the charging/55V circuit. LED 2 monitors the Ignition/Fuel/Injection circuits. LED 3 monitors Sensors/5V analog circuits. LED 4 indicates No Oil/Overheat conditions.

With the key on but motor not running, all 4 LEDs should be on. If a code 57 has been set, LED 3 will flash! If a code 29,31, or 33 was set, LED 4 will flash!

With motor running, all lights should be off unless motor is running in winterization mode. If there is a problem with a temperature or oil pump circuit, or a sensor reads a temperature above expected range or no pressure, LED 4 will be on. If a code 29 or 31 was set, LED 4 will flash.

BTW, the type of prop you're running often determines how high you can run the motor. A good SS 4B prop with lots of cup can often run higher than a cheap aluminum 3B prop w/o much cup in the blades. Denny

[Vezo, Part II]

Thanks guys, I think we're getting somewhere. 1.5 inches above keel sounds optimum to me. That would two holes up, and top. I think Ken and FlexPat's idea of temporarily removing the transducer to splash well is a solid one. Next, can I accurately attempt this with the Viper prop? I have received prop nut lock key from previous owner, as well.

Vezo

[Bushwacker]

Michael, I think the Viper prop would be a good test because 3B props typically don't grip the water as well as 4B props. If it runs ok with the Viper with AV plate at 1.5" above keel, you can be pretty confident that it will be fine with a 4B prop! Capt. Terry has run his old Merc 3B prop that I believe had a tendency to slip a bit although it gave him good rpm and speed, but he's run several different 4B props that all seemed to grip the water ok, although he couldn't turn them fast enough. He may have even tested a Viper initially. Denny

[Vezo, Part II]

Thanks Denny. You are welcome early, and first right to dock. My boat may stay on the trailer, (ramp), connected to the rig for ease of adjustments.

Looking forward to replaced w/p and hopeful adj. to engine height prior to your arrival. And temporary removal of transducer. Looking forward to testing props. Tabs are working properly.

Michael.