Degree of Tilt for Thru-Hull transducer?

[John3325]

Question on location, where exactly should I locate the thru-hull? I was checking it out today and it looks like it's going to be a tight fit no matter where I try to locate it around the engine and actual access I have to work with.

I think it would be much easier to put it in front of the engine, behind the battery tray. I have worries that this will be too far forward, but I think it's borderline for when I am up on a plane.

Hoping some other 23 IB can chime in on this one.

[dginge]

Hi there
I put my p319 thru hull ducer just aft of the fuel tank on my IO sceptre. It is just in front of my yanmar and 6-8 inches off the centerline. It seems perfect. The dead rise is very slight there. Like under 10 degrees. I didn't use a tilt either. It has a beam of 45 degrees. I'm happy with the location. I'm upgrading units and want that 840xs as well. Have you received yours yet? Does anyone else on this thread know anything about it? Seems like a great toy for my boat. Thanks

[kmoose]

The tilt you want is 20 degrees if you located it just starboard of the centerline which is what I recommend. Closest to the stern would be my preference. Here is a pic showing the location of my 264n. I understand most don't have the access I do to their bilge area but this has been a flawless location for a thru hull tilted ducer.

[John3325]

Thanks guys for the info. I wish I had that kind of access, problem with the IB is bilge area is limited close to centerline aft due to the running gear. Think it's going to end up under the transmission as close to the centerline as I can get it.

The 840xs is a good unit, they are on sale over on THT for $425 shipped through semperfifishing. Guys name is Gil, I have ordered two so far. (One for seacraft and one for the tower of the Luhrs).

[dginge]

Guys
Are you sure it's that much deadrise that far aft and just off the centerline? I'm starting to question my transducer choice if that's the case!?!!

[kmoose]

The deadrise at the bottom of the hull at the stern before the first strake is 18 degrees. Areas towards the direction of the bow will only increase. You want the 20 degree tilt.

[dginge]

Thank you.




QUOTE=kmoose;255447]The deadrise at the bottom of the hull at the stern before the first strake is 18 degrees. Areas towards the direction of the bow will only increase. You want the 20 degree tilt.[/QUOTE]

[hobiekanobie]

I have been meaning to post on here for a few days now.... excuse the ramble but hoping to give as much advise as possible.... I install marine electronics here in South Florida for a living. Primarily most of the work I do is on big sport fishes but I do on occasion work on their tenders and centre consoles too. Centre consoles is where I started out in the field. Primarily I install a lot of garmin and also Furuno. Garmin is very user friendly, kinda like an ipad. Furuno, most of the stuff I install is on a commercial level, radars, autopilots and sonars. ( I also install AV, stereos etc). From a recreational point of view, garmin is by far the way to go and you will definitely get more for your money/ease of use. I currently just upgraded to a 840xs and Airmar B60 transducer on my ‘72 20SF. Gemeco, maker of Airmar actually have an App where you can narrow down what type of transducer is suitable for you needs etc. in the app is also a “tilt” function which will help you figure out your deadrise. (Side note: those of you with iPhones, open up your compass and slide your finger to the left and you will find a level feature.) on my 20SF where I chose to mount my through hull, it was around 17’ so i went with the 20’ element B60. I will attach a diagram from airmar for best suited installation locations - keep in mind that make sure nothing is mounted or penetrates through the hull forward of your transducer location i.e. no through hull fittings or pickups etc. on the bigger boats we typically install the transducers on a fairing block. This lowers the transducer and keeps it below the air pocket. All hulls, particularly stepped hulls, create an airpocket which will not allow the transducer to operate correctly - evidence of this is when backing up, the screen goes fuzzy and cannot give you an accurate depth, depth display blinks. Once the boat is moving forward and the boat passes the turbulent water the transducer will read correctly.
Now, chirp vs traditional......
The big debate.... personally, I prefer a traditional transducer. I find it easier to dial in. What i have seen in the industry is that everyone wants chirp, but 90% of these people that want it have no idea what chirp is, just that it is the latest most techie thing released so to catch fish i have to have it.... I work along side professional boat captains daily that have no idea what chirp is - and this is their job, this is all they are paid to do.... mind boggling.
The simplist difference is that a traditional transducer will ping on a single frequency, be it 50kHz for deep water - upto or around 1200-1800ft depending on KW of transducer or 200kHz for shallow water. There are also some transducers that allow mid range frequencies too.
Chirp will ping on multiple frequencies in a range, allowing for a more definitive image below.
Some quick reading - https://scout.com/outdoors/bass-fish...onar-101451465

I hope this helps some, feel free to contact me if you have any questions or need some advice/guidance etc

[John3325]

That, was an awesome bulk of information. Much appreciated!

[kmoose]

I have both chirp and traditional fixed frequency ducers and one benefit to using chirp with the higher end Garmin MFDs is that you can single select the frequencies within the range of the chirp ducer you select. This allows for some very fine tuning and also allows you to run multiple ducers without conflicting returns.