1989 Sceptre to Center Console

[smilinmatt]

I also installed a strip of foam to the outside to attach a rubrail. I fiberglassed the cap, hull and inwale together. At this point, everything in the boat is one-piece (monocoque) construction.

Since I filled in the transom, I had a little more than 1/8" gap where the original cutout was. I ordered some 1/8" Divinycell to fill this in and built it up the rest of the way with 1708. At this point in the build (2 years in), I was getting to the point I wanted it done. So we will say that my fairing of this area left a little to be desired.

[smilinmatt]

I debated a while on paint. I didn't have space to spray, and since I had done everything on the boat so far, I didn't want someone else to paint it. That left rolling. I used System 3 before and it was ok, so I wanted something that would hold up (and initially look) better. I debated between Quantum and Alexseal. I ended up going with Quantum just because everything I read about Alexseal (including from them), said to ONLY use their products from prep to finish on the paint. I don't remember the exact numbers, but it was somewhere around $5000 for everything I needed for Alexseal vs. the $2000 I spent going with Quantum.

I ended up using System 3's high build primer (which I like and never had issues with) and Quantum finish primer and paint. I used Kingston Grey for the hull and Matterhorn White for the cap and interior. With the brushing additive, the first coat left some bubbles that needed to be tipped, but the second and third coats flowed out without any bubbles.

For what it is, I'm very happy with how it turned out. I'd rate the finish as somewhere between gelcoat and a sprayed paint. It's smoother and shinier than a production boat, but no one will mistake it for a $250k flats boat.

And for anyone that hasn't painted before, it wasn't just prime and paint. There was a little work in between...

[smilinmatt]

After installing the hatches and hardware, I used Kiwigrip for nonskid. For the rubrail, I left it on the asphalt for a few hours and had a friend help hold it in place as I screwed it on. I ended up using a heat gun to make sure I had a smooth curve at the bow and the stern corners.

I had the bracket built by A & J Marine. I went with a flotation bracket with a kicker mount. I went with the kicker option vs twins for two reasons. 1. If I had twins and one went out, the options are either lug the good motor hoping to get planing speeds or idle back in. 2. With a kicker, I have an excuse to get a jon boat.

I forgot to mention, but you can see it in some of the pictures, that I went with side scuppers for deck drain. I kept the original drains for the stern fishbox. The scupper covers I made by sanding foam into the shape I wanted, then fiberglassing over them. I built up enough layers to make it solid, then I scraped the foam out of it.

[smilinmatt]

The rest is just outfitting the boat. I kept the wiring simple. My first two cars were MGs, so I have an irrational fear of anything electrical. Everything is well labeled, so it can be easily isolated if needed. The console, leaning post and t-top all came from a guy that was rehabbing a 25 SeaVee.

The fabric on the top needed replacing. Rather than going with new fabric, I made a hard top out of extruded pvc. I coated it with one-part marine paint. We'll see how it holds up, but I've got less than $200 into it and only 3 or 4 hours labor, and it looks great.

Looking for engines in 2022 is not a pleasant task. I talked to several Tohatsu dealers (first choice), and got anywhere from being laughed at, to they weren't even willing to take a deposit. I did find one Suzuki dealer that said he could get a 250 mechanical for $26k plus installation. He said it would be 30-60 days out.

Even newer used are in short supply (probably because of new supply), so I ended up with a 2004 F225 that had the midsection replaced.

(The on the lift pictures are a couple days after Ian. I just gave it a quick rinse and put it on the lift.)

[smilinmatt]

As far as performance goes, this one is quite a bit different than how it started. Originally, as a Sceptre, I had a 2001 225 OX-66. Top speed was just at or under 40 mph, 4000 rpms was about 24 mph and I think around 4700 for 30 mph. I was getting a little better than 2 mpg cruising in the 4-4500 range.

Now I have a 2004 F225 with a 19 pitch SWS prop (I believe 15 1/4). I haven't put much time on it yet, but with 4 people and half a tank, I was seeing:

4000 rpms - 26 knots (30 mph)
4500 rpms - 30 knots
5700 rpms - 41 knots (47 mph)

That was going into a 10 knot wind. I didn't compare numbers when I turned around.

I didn't have the fuel flow hooked up when I ran those numbers. Since I've installed it, I've only gone from the boat ramp to the lift, so I don't know where I am fuelwise yet.

Some other performance notes. I was a bit concerned about how the weight would affect it. I'm probably 1000# lighter than when I started (and getting 47 mph with an F225 confirms that). There were whitecaps on the bay the day I took it out, and if anything, it handled those conditions better than it did originally. With everything fiberglassed together, it feels much more solid - no rattles or noises at all.

At idle, there is a little bit of squat. Not much, but I can tell the difference vs how it was as a Sceptre. It jumps on plane easily with very little bow rise. I didn't play with the trim tabs much, other than just to make sure they were working correctly.

I'm planning on doing about a 100 mile run on Saturday for a spearfishing tournament. The forecast is for 10-15 all day, so I should have a better performance report then.

[Capt Chuck]

Good ideas I'm seeing Smiln!
A couple of questions sir. Why did you decide on raising the deck 2" ?
Who gave you that idea?
Have you stood at the transom of a 23' SeaCraft with a raised floor too measure where your knees now come in contact with the gunwhales ?
Just curious

[smilinmatt]

Good ideas I'm seeing Smiln!
A couple of questions sir. Why did you decide on raising the deck 2" ?
Who gave you that idea?
Have you stood at the transom of a 23' SeaCraft with a raised floor too measure where your knees now come in contact with the gunwhales ?
Just curious
10-19-2022 05:15 PM

I raised the deck both to keep it higher than the waterline and make the area outside the stringers usable as below deck storage. On the Sceptre, when a couple people would stand on one side, I'd get water on the deck. Since I'm mostly diving out of the boat, having 2" less freeboard isn't a big deal.