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  #211  
Old 10-31-2011, 10:05 AM
SBD SBD is offline
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Your shop makes me cry!!!! Everything is looking amazing.
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  #212  
Old 11-06-2011, 02:07 PM
Blue_Heron Blue_Heron is offline
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Well, completed another milestone.







I went with the "classic Seacraft" pattern for the non-skid on the foredeck.



I know this is not how it was originally, but I wanted non-skid there and using the classic pattern breaks it up so that inconsistencies in the grit don't stand out as much.

It took about eight hours to do all the layout and masking for non-skid on the gunwales, transom cap, and foredeck.











I still have to paint the engine cover, the cabin hatch and the flip up thingy, but they still need some more prep. At least now, when I get tired of sanding, I can switch to installing deck hardware.

Dave
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  #213  
Old 11-06-2011, 04:03 PM
Bushwacker Bushwacker is offline
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Nice work Dave! That's a good idea on the front deck non-skid area - you're right that it's tough to get a uniform texture. Did you use the Interlux stuff?

Does your bow hatch have a core in it? Mine is pretty flimsy and there isn't even any cloth or roving in it . . . looks like a chopper gun lay up, maybe about 1/16" thick! If I were gonna paint my boat, I think the first thing I'd do is put some sort of core in that hatch to stiffen it. If somebody ever stepped on it, their foot would go right thru it! Denny
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  #214  
Old 11-06-2011, 04:56 PM
Islandtrader Islandtrader is offline
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Really cooking there...by the time I stop by, instead of talking Seacrafts I should be getting a ride...lol
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my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18594
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  #215  
Old 11-06-2011, 08:16 PM
Blue_Heron Blue_Heron is offline
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Denny,
On the non-skid, I'm reinventing the wheel again. The Awlgrip non-skid additive comes in a 1 quart/ 1lb. container for $30+. It can be mixed with the paint and sprayed. I'm guessing they've formulated it to have the same specific gravity as the paint so it will stay in suspension or something. Must be good stuff.

What I used was 80 grit glass bead blasting media. I already had it and I used about 35 cents worth. Rolled on the paint, sprinkled on the 80 grit with a salt shaker, and rolled paint over it. Then I sprayed it as I shot the rest of the boat. Time will tell if it was a dumb move. Right now, it looks pretty good.

The cabin hatch isn't cored, but it's at least an eighth inch thick. With that thickness and the convex shape, it's plenty strong.

Terry,
I must have misunderstood you. I thought you were stopping by THIS Thanksgiving.


I had time this afternoon to put a little boat jewelry on.





I needed to put the live well and fish box back in the boat to mark the mounting holes in the deck, so I decide to go ahead and mount the seat pedestals and see how it's gonna look with the seats mounted.



Dave
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  #216  
Old 11-06-2011, 08:37 PM
waterhazerd waterhazerd is offline
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nice job it looks great!! that is one nice boat what kind of power do you have going in that boat
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  #217  
Old 11-06-2011, 08:41 PM
Blue_Heron Blue_Heron is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waterhazerd View Post
nice job it looks great!! that is one nice boat what kind of power do you have going in that boat
Thanks. Power will be a Mercruiser 350 Mag MPI Seacore, 300 hp, closed cooling with a Bravo 1 outdrive.
Dave
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  #218  
Old 11-06-2011, 08:54 PM
77SceptreOB 77SceptreOB is offline
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Looking good Dave, Keep up the great work on that custom SeaFari 25!
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  #219  
Old 11-06-2011, 08:59 PM
McGillicuddy McGillicuddy is offline
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Sir,
With all due respect for your humble demeanor, perhaps you should ask Jason to change your handle to Great Blue Heron. Nice work, Dave. Thanks for another lesson.
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  #220  
Old 11-06-2011, 09:29 PM
Ryan Ryan is offline
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Lookin good!!!
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