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#251
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Thanks, Sean and Terry.
strick, Thanks for checking. I guess I'm going to go with acrylic for the side cabin windows. The plastics guys are telling me it will hold up to sun exposure just as well as lexan, and it's considerably less expensive. Dan, Thanks again for the heads up on the engine clearance. I thought I had saved the oil pan from the other motor, but I guess not. I'll check dimensions on the new engine before I try to drop it in. It probably won't be until the end of January at the earliest. The 350 Mag MPI has an oil drain hose that pulls out through the garboard plug. Hopefully, I won't have to butcher the keel stringer to make things fit. Dave
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Blue Heron Boat Works Reinventing the wheel, one spoke at a time. |
#252
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I think our set up is the same, let me know if you need any measurements
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] "If You Done It...It Ain't Braggin" my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18594 |
#253
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I just checked with my dad, as I could not see any notch under his motor. He remembered when he had his New Mercruiser MPI installed in 2000 into his 23, he constantly had oil in his bilge. He figured out it was the oil drain hose that you mentioned. His mechanic at the time noticed it was very close, but decided not to notch the stringer to avoid any long term issues. What happed was the hose kept hitting the stringer and would loosen the fitting and let oil out the pan.He tightened the hose fitting, but it happened again a few months later The solution was to remove that hose and put in a normal drain plug and just suck the oil out of the dipstick from then on. It was been that way for 10 years with no issues. If you can figure out where it will hit, make a small notch for that hose and you will be all set, or just remove it and suck it out when needed.
Dan
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It's not a Small-Craft, it's a Seacraft |
#254
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Thanks for the offer, Terry. I'll let you know if I need any measurements.
Dan, I’ll keep an eye on clearance for the drain hose. My garboard plug is on the starboard side, so if the drain hose is on the port, I may have to do what your dad did and put a conventional plug in it. So I’ve done a bunch of little stuff. Here are some pics: Decals for the drive and gimbal housing ![]() ![]() I also installed the trim rams and pump so I could verify the health of the system after sitting up for over a year. After running some fluid through it, it looks pretty good. Started out a little stiff, but worked the squeaks out of it with a few in/out cycles. ![]() ![]() I’ve installed clam shells and sea cocks for two through hulls. There’s a 1 ¼” for engine cooling water: ![]() ![]() And a ¾” for the live well and raw water washdown: ![]() ![]() Installed the water tank and got started on the plumbing: ![]() ![]() ![]() Last but not least, I installed the garboard. ![]() The only hole left to plug is the one where the outdrive goes. Hey, I may actually have her floating this year. Dave
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Blue Heron Boat Works Reinventing the wheel, one spoke at a time. |
#255
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Nice work, as usual!
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1977 SeaCraft 23' Sceptre W/ Alum Tower & Yamaha 225 www.LouveredProductsUnlimited.com |
#256
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Thanks, Jim.
I spent a weekend working on plumbing and rigging tubes. I’ve got a 1 ½” overflow drain poked through the deck and discharging through a seacock in the transom. Also stubbed the ¾” supply pipes through the deck for the live well supply and fresh water wash down. I ran the steering cable and some rigging tubes for wiring. I’ve got a 2” conduit from the transom to the helm, a 2” from the front of the engine compartment to the helm, a ¾” from the battery box to the helm, and a 1 ½” from the battery compartment to the engine compartment. There is a space under the deck between the outer stringer and the chine where I ran the live well plumbing, the rigging tube from the transom, and the steering cable. Here are some pics from each end. ![]() ![]() The rigging tubes and steering cable come up through the foot rest to the helm. ![]() ![]() And the thru hull for the live well drain: ![]() Next on the to do list is the plumbing for the raw water wash down and the bilge pumps. It shouldn’t be long before I’m ready to install the fuel tanks and drop the motor in. Dave
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Blue Heron Boat Works Reinventing the wheel, one spoke at a time. |
#257
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I took a look under the motor and made some measurements. The oil drain hose is on a swivel fitting that stubs out of the bottom of the oil pan in the center. The keel stringer is about 1/4" too high for it to clear. I'll trim the stringer down and re-glass it before I install the motor. Thanks again for the heads up. Dave
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Blue Heron Boat Works Reinventing the wheel, one spoke at a time. |
#258
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Spectacular..
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#259
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THT 5% true.
CSC....... Priced less with more value. Nice work, GFS |
#260
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Thanks, guys. More progress...
A while back I put some paint stripper on my cabin window frames. ![]() I used the eco friendly water based stuff. It took about five days to loosen the paint, but it worked pretty well. ![]() Fast forward a month and I had them powder coated, bought some Plexiglas, and installed the frames. ![]() And with the Plexiglas and gasket installed: ![]() ![]() Moving right along. Dave
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Blue Heron Boat Works Reinventing the wheel, one spoke at a time. |
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