![]() |
#21
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Quote:
is it a two part? why this over a marine paint? Thanks! |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I replaced the entire deck, re cored the cap, did the transom, re did the gas tank deck, new gas tank, re did the CC, and on, and on, and on, all new everything plus as this picture shows removed the paint on the out side of the hull back to the original gel coat and then painted. I really learned how to drink MASS QUANTITIES OF BEER and burned out 2 electrical orbital sanders in the process. If you go to Gallery and click on Fellowship there got to be 30 + pictures of my over one year 150 day project.
FellowShip _______________________________________________ My motto: Just for the Grins ![]() |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Quote:
Why over marine? Because the marine designation just means double the price. ![]() I'm not one to just take someones word just because but when a product is right as far as cost and performance it works. This is not my boat it is Warthogs X-shark with the Tileclad HS applied. Good product and cost effective. I'll get off my soapbox now. ![]()
__________________
May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I gutted and re-did a 1975 IB. The PSS dripless shaft log is great. I suggest you pull everything you can and get a moisture meter on everything and make sure its not soaked. As you have no doubt picked a unique boat, beware the advice from the outboard skiff riders...
![]()
__________________
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...9/IMG_0476.jpg |
#25
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
what is a moisture meter? what do you think are reasonable moisture readings? Tell me about yours Jeff H. got any specs?pics?
I have a question for all inboard guys out there.......what are the engine mounts made off, whats underneith that glass? are yours bolted in with heavy threaded lag bolts? |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I sent you a PM. I'm bolted in, most of the boat is plywood covered in glass. Try to get to everything laid out before you start putting the parts back in her, not much room to work with if you have to go back in...measure twice, cut once.
__________________
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...9/IMG_0476.jpg |
#27
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Good stuff. I have one of these projects myself located in Chatham. The deck is out. Motor picked out. and grinding in progress. If you need any motor/trans parts let me know.
|
#28
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
If you can find industrial imron it covers and sticks well. It has about 2x the solids as the auto/marine imron. Plus it's brushable. It's a 2-part poly. With that prop size are you running a 1.5 to 1 borg-warner? If you are running a bw be conservative on the cam. You need to get a smooth idle at about 750 rpm. I tried to use an rv cam on a pair of 454 Crusaders on a customers boat and we couldn't get it to idle smoothly and it sounded like @$#% when you put it in gear. It may not be too bad in a lighter boat. You may just want to take out a little pitch to get the rpm up to about 4200 at wot. Just a thought.
|
#29
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Quote:
|
#30
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
i am running a 17 by 17 with a slight cup and it seems to work well. I get some noise around 1800 nut othe than that it seems like a good fit. It bites well, and isnt so bad on wot. I hope i dont need anothe prop once the explosion box i rebuilt, but we will see. as evrything thing in life......this is a work in progress.
Where can i get get the industrial Imron? anybody? |
![]() |
|
|