77 23' Savage - Page 3

Islandtrader · #21 07-10-2007, 08:10 AM

I know this is a hard thing to do. However stand back and take a deep breath. Don't do anything for at least a month. By then every thing will seem much clearer and you will make better decisions.

bdolnik · #22 07-14-2007, 12:50 PM

Old motor came out today... new one on order. I'm going to try and use the old transmission to start out with.

Islandtrader · #23 07-14-2007, 08:20 PM

Do yourself a favor, from some one who has been there. Rebuild the tranny and save your self future headaches

bdolnik · #24 07-17-2007, 11:15 PM

What kind of problems did you run into with the old transmission IslandTrader? What did it cost you to rebuild, I've seen the exact transmission as I have on Ebay for $1700 rebuilt, or I could buy a brand new one from the place I bought the engine for $2200. Guy I bought the engine from talked me into trying the old one first though.

Islandtrader · #25 07-18-2007, 09:29 AM

Let me explain further. I am sure you are in a boating area, and that there are people that rebuild transmissions. In my area,(Sarasota) I can get it done for $600. Yes for the price difference why buy a rebuilt. However what I am trying to save you is the headache of pulling the old engine taking off the tranny, put it on the new engine, drop it in, and find out it does not work. Now you have to pull the new engine again, and then rebuild the tranny (or buy) then reassemble and start all over again. If the boat has not been under water and has been running before, the tranny is probly good. Pull the dipstick. If the oil looks new, then I am sure you can get away with out doing anything. However I think it is cheap insurance, at this point.

Anybody out there have another take on this?

bdolnik · #26 07-18-2007, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Pull the dipstick. If the oil looks new, then I am sure you can get away with out doing anything.

Yea that's what the guy who sold me the engine said to do, that and check the filter and change it and the seals. Said you really don't have anything to loose. Luckily on this boat I don't think you have to pull the motor to get the tranny out. It's all very accessible when you pull that back deck up.

New motor actually arrived yesterday while I was down there cleaning out the bilge, that was VERY quick, didn't expect it that soon. Just ordered it on Thursday.

bdolnik · #27 07-18-2007, 08:49 PM

Tanks are out now and they don't look too bad. They were epoxied on bottom and sides so may not be originals. I don't know, any chance the factory would have done that on the Savages?

Also can anyone explain how the blower system works on the inboards? There is a blower/motor in the stern on the port side, hooked up to large flexible piping. The piping goes to the rear vent and I believe the forward vent. On the starboard side the flexible pipe is there but it's not hooked up to the blower.

Islandtrader · #28 07-19-2007, 09:59 AM

If you look at the tanks some place near the filler there should be a plate or sticker that tells when they were made.

As far as the blower, think of it as a vacuum cleaner. It's job is to suck the air out of the bilge. So one end of the hose should be in the low part of the bilge and the other to an exit point. The other hose is to allow circulation while the boat is running under power. That way the blower is not on at all times. The bilge air is then removed by a venturi process. Hope this helps.

BigLew · #29 07-19-2007, 08:43 PM

This is possibly a minor point, but I learned (and it makes sense if you think about it) that the blower should be mounted so that it sucks fresh air in and delivers it to the bilge/below deck areas where it will be forced out the remaining vents, along with the air in the bilge go any accumulated fumes from fuel, etc.

If you mount the blower so that it picks up the bilge air and pushes through the blower and then out through the vent, you run the risk of drawing up fume laden air in the bilge and forcing it past an electric motor that more than likely is creating sparks at the armature portion to the electric motor; a potential disaster!

Because of this, it is recommended that the blower be run for 5 minutes prior to engaging the starter or even turning on the ignition. In our boats this should provide time for about a three to five fold exchange of outside air through the bilge.

Just my 2 cents.

Islandtrader · #30 07-21-2007, 09:33 AM

You could be right on this. However I believe the blower motor is built so that it will not spark on start up. I think they call this spark arrested? Anyway the best test is the nose test.