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#21
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Agreed.
However if you wait until the hot coat is tacky, but not cured, the absorption will be over and you'll get a great bond...best of both world. The cloth will be tricky though. |
#22
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Well, we finally got around to removing the hardtop, the rodholders, outrigger mounts and the rear hardtop legs today......poor 'ole girl looks a little naked! I took the advice I was given about resins, (thanks to all that replied!) and ordered 15 gals of epoxy from US Composites (I had purchased some from them last year...they were a little bit higher, but I received good customer service from them).
Now, how hard is it to remove the cap and recore the gunnels and bow area???? There was a bit of soft or almost non-existant wood in there in some spots. Suggestions here please...is this feasable or not?
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Keith Willis 25ft Downeaster Pilothouse Ford F350 Super Duty SRW 1977 SeaCraft Sceptre- SOLD |
#23
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I did this two years ago. I will be in NC late July as that is my home - Morehead City. PM me and I will either tell you about my experience or email you.
ET |
#24
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#25
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Got our resin in from US Composites and started laying some glass....started with the fast one.... we removed the bowpulpit and recored it, laid one layer so far of 1708, when that cures going to sand and add another layer, then fair it out. I then mixed some resin and wet out the transom plywood so that it might be in better condition and not soak up too much resin when I start our layup. I plan on doing 2 layers of 1708 on the outside (facing the bow) and one on the inside (going against the outerskin, which will already have a layer of 1708) I need pointers or advice here if I should use the aforementioned schedule or something else....better! Thanks
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Keith Willis 25ft Downeaster Pilothouse Ford F350 Super Duty SRW 1977 SeaCraft Sceptre- SOLD |
#26
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Not sure you need 2 layers facing the bow. Others will chime in.
Be sure to check out Stricks link or mine and make sure you set up a clamping system for the transom. Most of us just use 2*4 with bolts thru the transom. I saw on the sight here some one made a couple of BIG C clamps so he would not have to fill the holes. Be sure a drill in a bunch of resin relief holes in the plywood so the stuff can ooze out while clamping. Check out 65bowriders link also. She had a good pictorial on installing the transom.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] "If You Done It...It Ain't Braggin" my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18594 |
#27
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I was told by a professional that thru bolting is not necessary to set the material for new transom. As long as you have it held in firmly the cabosil will do all the work. He recommended dry wall screws from the exterior which is what I used. Mine hasn't been tested yet so I can't confirm any of this...
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Will |
#28
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] "If You Done It...It Ain't Braggin" my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18594 |
#29
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We got the transom core in today, laid on 1 layer of 1708 facing the outer skin and while it was setting up we mixed a bit of cabosil and epoxy and throughly wet the outer skin, set the core in and used the drywall screws to pull the core to the skin....added the weep holes and will start the inside layup sometime next week (hopefully)! Going with 1708, 1.5 oz matt and then another layer of 1708, does this sound reasonable??
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Keith Willis 25ft Downeaster Pilothouse Ford F350 Super Duty SRW 1977 SeaCraft Sceptre- SOLD |
#30
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Keith Willis 25ft Downeaster Pilothouse Ford F350 Super Duty SRW 1977 SeaCraft Sceptre- SOLD |
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