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  #21  
Old 07-08-2012, 06:50 PM
gofastsandman gofastsandman is offline
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You have to remove the binnie to change the cables. The switch looks like the one in the volvo door jam that turns off the int. lts.

Idle should be 850 +- 50 in neutral. 650 +- 50 in gear. Don`t baby it going into gear. Don`t jam it either. Just a positive firm shift.

You must use champion supression plugs in these puppys or blow p packs. Nothing else.
I think you spec QL 76jc4 @ .0030 gap.

Idle speed is determined by timing.

Which mark is your throttle pick up roller at in neutral, and is it just touching the plate with the 2 marks on it?

There is a detent in neutral on the binnie.

The fast start primer feature will bring the rpms up to 1200 or so when cold and drop back when happy. I push the key in 10 times to juice her up and hold the key in while crankin`. If she stumbles, just push the key in with bumps. They take a little getting used to, but when you learn your motah they aren`t as cranky as some say. 2nd the lync n sync advice. Crucial.

Pull the airbox and have someone run the boat while you look down the throats. Idle and above 4k. Not long above 4k as you lean out the pig without the air box. If you notice different spray patterns, you have clogged jets.

Ken Cook reprints the old factory manuals. Read it until your head explodes.

Rinse and repete,
GFS
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  #22  
Old 07-09-2012, 09:01 PM
Snookerd Snookerd is offline
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Update-
The motor is running well and I did some test regarding the lockout/kill feature. Yes, it starts IN GEAR! and it impossible to even find neutral. Hopefully it is just an adjustment and not a new binnie! The motor dies instantly going into reverse. The proverbial sigh of relief that the motor is not the problem!
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  #23  
Old 07-09-2012, 09:57 PM
gofastsandman gofastsandman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snookerd View Post
Update-
The motor is running well and I did some test regarding the lockout/kill feature. Yes, it starts IN GEAR! and it impossible to even find neutral. Hopefully it is just an adjustment and not a new binnie! The motor dies instantly going into reverse. The proverbial sigh of relief that the motor is not the problem!
Compression is everything in a smoker.

Start at the beginnning.

You have done very well.

Carbs first. Do not lean out.

Then the lync n sync. 2 y`s by a bye, just me.

Cheers,
To those who taught me,
GFS

Your current problem is the shift switch interupter.

Last edited by gofastsandman; 07-09-2012 at 10:03 PM.
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  #24  
Old 07-10-2012, 06:15 AM
thehermit thehermit is offline
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Snook,

for testing....you can disconnect the shift interupter. Follow the black wire up to the Power Pack...and unplug.
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  #25  
Old 09-15-2012, 08:10 AM
Snookerd Snookerd is offline
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The hermit and GFS- I Did unplug the shift interruptor wire and it instantly stayed running- thanks for your help. The problem for the stall in reverse was 100% the shift interrupter. I got a nice Reese hitch for my new Nissan Armada this week. So, I am planning on dunking the boat this weekend. I hooked up with a buddy that is a master mechanic for Nissan who also happens to be a boat rebuild guy, so I am stoked about the boat and SUV towing anywhere in FLA! If you read between the lines: gentleman, get your trailer repairs done cause comming up, we will be doing CSC gatherings again!!
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  #26  
Old 09-15-2012, 08:49 AM
pelican pelican is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snookerd View Post
The hermit and GFS- I Did unplug the shift interruptor wire and it instantly stayed running- thanks for your help. The problem for the stall in reverse was 100% the shift interrupter. I got a nice Reese hitch for my new Nissan Armada this week. So, I am planning on dunking the boat this weekend. I hooked up with a buddy that is a master mechanic for Nissan who also happens to be a boat rebuild guy, so I am stoked about the boat and SUV towing anywhere in FLA! If you read between the lines: gentleman, get your trailer repairs done cause comming up, we will be doing CSC gatherings again!!

shift shaft seals -

if a salt build up occurs on the housing for the shift shaft seals,this will "tighten" the shift - causing it to do one of 2 things,either trip the interup,stalling the engine when shifting in reverse,or not allowing the gear case to go into reverse...make sure this isn't the problem...those shift interupts are pretty trouble free...
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  #27  
Old 09-15-2012, 09:38 AM
Snookerd Snookerd is offline
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Thanks pelican I had heard what you are describing. So does is it a concern for saltwater getting in the LU? Does It create the situation of a failing switch? The stalling clearly is the switch, but if it's because it has become tight due to the seal, then I have a bigger issue. Thanks
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  #28  
Old 09-15-2012, 09:42 AM
Snookerd Snookerd is offline
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It goes into both forward and reverse with ease
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  #29  
Old 09-15-2012, 05:46 PM
pelican pelican is offline
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easiest way to determine,is to disconnect the cable from the linkage on the engine - try and move the linkage - if it's rough,the seals are the poblem,if it's freely moving,then the switch is the problem...

no water will be noted in the lower unit - salt wicks moisture,the o rings will actually pry against the shaft,"tightening" the shaft - it's a very common problem...
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  #30  
Old 09-16-2012, 08:56 AM
Snookerd Snookerd is offline
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Pelican-I think your diagnosis is spot on. The binnacle is tight to shift for sure. The motor even with the shift interrupt unplugged is still dying at idle. The motor seems to be firing on all 6 when running. Besides possibly having to raise the motor a notch, the motor once running sounds good. 2 observations on the Sceptre performance- having a light single on the transom and the cabin up front, really has an impressive CG for planning at low speed and the lay up on these Potter 23's allows the boat to be strong but quite efficient due to it not being overbuilt.
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