#21
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Thanks for the reply!! I measured my 23' Seacraft console tonight... It measures 39" x 54". I think I am going to try to narrow and shorten it a bit to match the stock size console.... I still want to have a good bit of walk around room on the boat. I am curious as to how far forward you moved your fuel tank. I plan on at least a 70 gallon tank. Also, my plan is to relocate my batteries to underneath the console as well as far forward in the console as I can get them. I too am coming from a high 50's 25' Center console and moving to a smaller boat. I do like speed as well and will try to get as much speed out of this hull as I possibly can. I'm just more interested in a smaller easier to pull and maintain boat at a fraction of the cost of both of my Contenders. This boat should do everything that I want and need it to do. |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
I only have 50 gallons, but Ill try and see if I can find dimensions on the tank. At the very least I will be able to get you a number pulling from inside the transom to where the back of the tank starts.
One thing to remember, especially going from big boat to small boat, is with the wide console and an enclosure, you stay a lot dryer at the helm than with a skinny console. The thing I don't like About wide console is no rod holders on side of console. Edit, I measured the walk through today, its 10.25". |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
Made a little more progress today...
Cut the floor out.... It was soft and soaking wet. Appears that someone has already been into the boat one time before... Appears that someone already raised the floor over the stock box stringers.... Am I correct on this or was this factory built like this?? Removed lots of foam... Started coring the transom... It was soaking wet and rotted!!! |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
The boat looks like a virgin to me. The stringers look factory and I can see the cabosil from the factory. Good thing you are re-doing it the way the transom looks if you go with a bracket like you said earlier in one of your posts. Get rid of all that foam it's unnecessary and adds weight to the boat and traps moisture. The stringers are foam filled and that provides enough flotation should you swamp which probably will never happen. Your gonna love that boat when it's all finished
strick
__________________
"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
#25
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
If they look like the one below on my '72, about 1" deep, it doesn't have the raised deck. If the scupper well is 2-3" deep, it had the raised deck from the factory.
__________________
'72 SeaFari/150E-Tec/Hermco Bracket, owned since 1975. http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...Part2019-1.jpg |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
The boat has definitely been touched before... There are 2x4 pieces of wood all around the perimeter of the hull just under the gunnel where the floor was resting. In the wood were wood screws. Also, the forward box stringers were cut open and exposing foam. There were also cutting wheel cuts that run the length of the box stringers that wasnt caused by me since I cut out around close to the edge of the gunnel walls.
There was also a half sheet of raw plywood sitting up underneath the floor when I did pull it up. Oh, and the scuppers were about 3-4" deep. I was wondering about the foam... Sit it is ok to run the boat with the foam filled stringers only??? I'd definitely like to keep all of that extra foam out if the rebuild if I can. You would have also thought there would have been some sort of rear bulkhead to enclose the fuel tank. All that was separating it from the bilge area was a large block of raw foam you see in the pictures I posted. |
#27
|
|||
|
|||
My dad and I getting more done on the Seacraft....Coring the transom.
Transom cored!!! Just have to hit it with a flapper wheel and smooth everything thing up in preparation for the new transom. |
#28
|
|||
|
|||
If the stringer tops are cut into and not correctly capped, then they are a lot weaker than stock. It is hard to tell from the photo. If they have been hacked, then you will want to address that. (edit: you said they might have been raised already?)
If done properly, you can grit blast fiberglass rather than sanding for prep. But just like sanding, there is a lot of vacuuming and other prep. But way faster for rough/uneven surfaces. My suggestion for raising the floor is to use pultruded fiberglass tubing rather than 2x4s. It is straight, strong, light, inexpensive and rot proof. And you can use for wire routing. I hold my fuel tanks in with it where rotten 2x4s were. http://www.mcmaster.com/#fiberglass-hollow-bars/=oimc42 I have a different opinion about how much foam the boats need. But it is a matter of philosophy. Or maybe bad math on my part. My 20 footer has enough to not sink, even with a full tank and a gaping hole. It is a lot of foam. A pretty unlikely scenario. I think next time I will go with block/sheet polyethylene or polypropylene foam. |
#29
|
|||
|
|||
On my 74, the forward section of my box stringers were cut and the boat was factory. I had less foam on the sides than you do, it was done well, sloped so water would drain which entered through the gunnels. That foam block behind the fuel tank does give some structure to the boat even though there is nothing on either side, IMO.
|
#30
|
|||
|
|||
this brings back some realy itchy memories!
|
|
|