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  #21  
Old 08-18-2014, 07:32 PM
CoreyTrx CoreyTrx is offline
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I used a scraping blade that attaches to a reciprocating saw. It worked really good.
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  #22  
Old 08-20-2014, 05:31 PM
jorgeinmiami jorgeinmiami is offline
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So I just need to know this.

How many out there have done a transom that would do it again?

I cannot imagine that they are few and far between.

Its time to bring out the power tools!!!!!!
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  #23  
Old 08-20-2014, 05:55 PM
DonV DonV is offline
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I would.......however only on my boat!
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  #24  
Old 08-20-2014, 06:17 PM
hermco hermco is offline
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Did one once, no fun without an air chisel and several homemade and modified blades.
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  #25  
Old 08-24-2014, 07:49 PM
jorgeinmiami jorgeinmiami is offline
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Worked on the transom today, got out the gas chainsaw and was careful with it.
Took out 95% of the wood and I got stuck on the small part left.

How do I access and take off the nuts to remove the transom lifting ring?

I cannot get to it with my live well being in the way...tried to get at it by removing the side vent but there is a huge amount of potter putty in the way and it looks like I would not get there anyways due to a tight fit or is this the way to go?

SUGGESTIONS??????


Something else I found...the drain tube did not go all the way thru, it had 2 inches on each side and in the middle where the wood was it had nothing.....someone took a shortcut
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  #26  
Old 08-24-2014, 08:07 PM
DonV DonV is offline
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Yikes!!! You may have met your match on the Potter putty!!!!!!
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  #27  
Old 08-24-2014, 08:16 PM
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Capt Chuck Capt Chuck is offline
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Quote:
How do I access and take off the nuts to remove the transom lifting ring?
Jorge

Try a sawzall and cut the lifting pad eye as close to the alum projection spacer. Then wedge the spacer off. Next use a o piece of 2' x 4' to pound the two pad eye pieces from the outside into the cut out transom space.
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  #28  
Old 08-24-2014, 08:43 PM
jorgeinmiami jorgeinmiami is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Up Chuck View Post
Jorge

Try a sawzall and cut the lifting pad eye as close to the alum projection spacer. Then wedge the spacer off. Next use a o piece of 2' x 4' to pound the two pad eye pieces from the outside into the cut out transom space.
Ok I see ....so then is it possible to get it back in place?

You never know someday down the road I may need to use it to lift the boat

Or for tubing or skiiing
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  #29  
Old 08-24-2014, 11:13 PM
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Capt Chuck Capt Chuck is offline
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Chip away at the putty then after removal and new transom is in, you will have to install new lifting pad eyes.
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  #30  
Old 08-25-2014, 07:07 AM
flyingfrizzle flyingfrizzle is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jorgeinmiami View Post
So I just need to know this.

How many out there have done a transom that would do it again?

I cannot imagine that they are few and far between!!!!!
You say that now? Just wait till you have to fair the back of the boat back true. Then you will really think twice about doing another one. I wont ever do one from the back side due to the amount of fairing. But doing one from the inside isn't fun either cause you still have to cut and reinstall the liner section and fair that out too. Its a lot of work either way. All this just for a boat ride??? The cost of having a true classic, Priceless. The love of labor is a must when you own an old anything- boat , car, truck ,historic home you name it!

To help your rear eye problem cut them with the saw like mentioned and throw them away. You can get an eye that has nuts on both sides inside and outside. Just hand tighten the inside (probably wont get a wrench in there to tighten them well) then use the outer nuts to get them tight. You can get a small kid with little arms to reach in and put the nuts back on for you on the inside.
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