Bunk or roller trailer

[Ed]

ABL111-

Have you tried moving your bunks in a bit? It looks like they are very far out and as a result, the hull is bottoming out on the keel rollers before it makes contact with the bunks which should center the boat. As it is setup now, teh weight is on the keel rollers...and when the hull rolls off them during unloading and loading you get the gouges.


I would try moving the main bunks in first. Then once they are in position, you adjust the existing rollers to take a little bit of weight (bunks should carry the vast majority of the weight) or you can ditch the rollers and just swap in Captain Chucks v-blocks and front bunks.

[abl1111]

Thx for all the input and help. I think that the best solution would be to have (2) angled rollers along side the aft roller to keep the boat centered. All else works well once she is centered. The "V" is pretty constant through-out the hull.

Capt Chuck: Those front beds seem great, but my problem would happen before I even hit that point - the boat would fall off the roller. However, the 12x2 "V" idea seems like a good one, but I'd be concerned that there is a lot of friction on that once the boat was being pulled home ? What's your opinion ? I think once I get the loading problem figured out, then those front bunks would help reduce load on front keel rollers a lot...

Bushwacker: cool design roller by Stoltz - might work ?!

Trident: I think the bunks are where they should be - I did a lot of research i.e. looked at a lot of trailered SC pix on this site and asked a lot of measurement specs before I set them there. Also, the rollers were re-adjusted the first time I set it all up to have the rollers just touch the keel - 90% or more of the aft weight is on the bunks.

The other thing to think of is that the cross members of this trailer are not symetrical box-tube (square), but more like a "C" shape with 90 degree angles. It's tough to mount things to it and maintain structural integrity.

Also, it is a trailer I use 2-4x a year. If I needed it more, I'd get a new one...

[NoBones]

Ok, now that everyone else has given there take on trailers,
I will give you mine.
My 20SF sits on a tandem axle galvanized Continental.
On the set up there are 7 12in Stoltz rollers and
8 4in donut rollers. I used 14in galvanized 5/8 bolts on the 12in rollers and 4in 5/8 bolts on the 4in donuts.
Every shaft was drilled in the center of the bolt head approx. 5 inches on the 12's and 2 inches on the 4's
with an 1/8 inch dill bit, with an outlet hole and the end of the drilling. Then tapped for a zirc fitting that
enables you to be able to pump grease into the roller shaft.
I set up double 12 inch on the first cross member and the second. There is a 12 inch wide piece of rough sawn Cedar
as a walk board the length of the trailer. Also a 912 Power Winch with a stainless cable that runs the length of the walk board. What this allows me to do is launch and load the boat by myself. It is truly a one man operation.
I shot these pics in the barn just now...












Also the shafts (bolts) are tack welded on the heads to the frame.
The biggest failure is when a roller seizes on the shaft and wears out the bracket. These rollers have not been touched in over 10 years. Just take grease gun to the ramp twice a year and juice em' up.


I know the pics are over kill, but a picture to me is worth a
thousand words..
You be the judge. Decide how you want to be able to come and go as you please.

See ya, Ken

[Capt Chuck]

Capt Chuck: Those front beds seem great, but my problem would happen before I even hit that point - the boat would fall off the roller. However, the 12x2 "V" idea seems like a good one, but I'd be concerned that there is a lot of friction on that once the boat was being pulled home ? What's your opinion ? I think once I get the loading problem figured out, then those front bunks would help reduce load on front keel rollers a lot...

Based on what you are describing,I figure two things here Alan. Like Ed said if you move the bunks inside a couple of inches, less pressure on the keel. All your weight should be on the bunks. Also, I think your not sinking your trailer in the water far enough and your dragging your boat up. You need to drive your boat on. Sometimes, depending on how steep the ramp is, I just can float the boat in position.
No friction on the Keel Guide or the forward bunks because, As your boat loads they doesn't touch the hull until it's just about in position to haul out.

The keel guide and the front bunks should NOT take any load of the boat! Both are put in position snug up to the hull while your boat is centered on the trailer in your yard. You need to get the load off the center rollers period. A "Float-On" type trailer is not a "Roller" trailer. Your trying to combine the two

[Fr. Frank]

I don't use keel rollers, I don't use bow rollers or bow guides, and I drive on with my hull centered every time. Just adjust your bunks to just outside the first chine, for maximum strength, and allow only 1 inch side to side play, using bunk slides. Make sure your bunks are high enough off the frame that your bow does not hit the crossmember as you come into the trailer. With the bunk slides, your bow will self-center every time as log as you get it between the bunks.


I've done all my boats this way for years, even before the days of "glide sliks" I used 1/3 of a PVC tube over the top of the bunk. Never had a misaligned boat, never had a crooked boat on the trailer, never had hull damage from missing the rollers.

The only downside is loading by yourself. I have to leave the boat running in gear while I hook it to the winch and snug it. Most of the time, though, I just get my wife or one of the kids to do that.

[oldfielder]

Just another perspective-I've had my boat on a 48 roller Venture Trailer for four years and have never had a single problem loading or unloading my boat, which I fully expected to after moving up from a little 17 foot aquasport. I trailer it alone quite often and I can't believe how perfecly the boat loads up every time I come in. I know, I'm sure I just jinxed myself for this spring.
The boat also seems very well supported on this rig.

[abl1111]

I'm still thinking about all this info...

[rhody98]

On the set up there are 7 12in Stoltz rollers and
8 4in donut rollers. I used 14in galvanized 5/8 bolts on the 12in rollers and 4in 5/8 bolts on the 4in donuts.
Every shaft was drilled in the center of the bolt head approx. 5 inches on the 12's and 2 inches on the 4's
with an 1/8 inch dill bit, with an outlet hole and the end of the drilling. Then tapped for a zirc fitting that
enables you to be able to pump grease into the roller shaft.

This is an excellent idea from NoBones, good pics. Wish I saw this thread before I bought the standard 5/8" straight shafts with "hat" caps and new 8" keel rollers for my trailer. Pretty much have to take it apart to regrease. Next time, I guess.

[eggsuckindog]

The flost on aluminum trailers are so sweet, I drive mine on, Susan tightens the winch strap and we are out in less than 2 minutes. Mine is a Fast Load built in Plant City but Owens & Son makes agreat trailer too - maybe go to their websites to see what I mean - they are so sweet boys honest.

[gofastsandman]

Put on some rear guide posts and run her up the easy way.
They make a world of difference.
GFS
Maybe tomorrow it`1l stop blowin and I can practice my loading.