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#41
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Thanks for the comments and photos guys!
The reason for the deck removal was due to the following things. Removing the splashwell Removing the rear vents Adding full transom Found soft areas of the deck Had to push the 150gal fuel tank (3yrs old) 8" forward. Had to create fish box Found water pooling under the foam Had to remove the rotted ply that held up the fuel tank Need to reinforce the transom, Bracket and new motor I just couldn't see doing all of this and leaving a soft deck in place. In addition, I rarely fish, I am a diver in Florida so the boat gets used year around. So LARGE scuppers in the rear are necissary to allow water from the dive gear out. Making it look pretty after it's all done WILL be the hard part. But, I am sealing the deck and only installing ispection ports. I am lucky enough to have a fried that owns a fiberglass decking company which makes the raw materials fairly inexpenive. Right now, I have approx 15 hours in the whole process. Grinding does suck! Jason |
#42
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Made some progress on Sunday. Removed big tank. Spent the better part of the day grinding the bilge tank area getting it ready for the Tank deck to be installed. Wasn't going to getcoat the bilge but a buddy talked me into it. Got the template cut out for the transom, and old holes patched with structural glass putty. SOOO much fiberglass dust.
Jason |
#43
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I am thinking about doing the following to the bilge / tank platform area.
Sorry for the crude drawing, didn't put much time in it. Any opinions, out there. Jason ![]() |
#44
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Well....No opinions/advice on the bilge tank area.
Sooo. I intalled one of the slats like the drawing shows. Will do the rest tomorrow. Jason |
#45
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Made a little more progress this weekend until the grinder got the best of me.
I got a little helper ![]() ![]() Transom looked good, sounded good, but wasn't...so it had to go. ![]() I will be installing 10 of these slats to hold the gas tank. This should eliminate water pooling, and provide ample support. ![]() ![]() more progress photos when the hand heals a little. Jason |
#46
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Jason
Do I dare ask what happened to the hand ?? [img]/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] Little guy looks like he's into it !!! Interesting replacement of the fuel deck ....do those strips have a slight crown in them ?? |
#47
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The hand......Oh lets just saw that a 4.5" grinder with a chainsaw blade on it is definately the way to core an old transom but not the way to trim your left index finger nail. [img]/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]
The tank slats are made of fiberglass board as you can see. But have a piece of rubber on top to keep the tank from rubbing. My tank is larger and a little wider than the factory tank and will be installed so that it does not move or vibrate. Right in front of the slat you see will the fish box bulkhead. A BIG FISH BOX [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] |
#48
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Thaks for sharing all the pics. and sorry to hear about the Grinder bite, ouch..
I like the shot of they little guy with the axe taking it out on the transom. I like you idea and think it will work very well. The only thing to look into are the rubber pads rubber contains carbon, which is cathodic to aluminum and will cause galvanic corrosion. (according to Yachtsurvey.com) |
#49
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Trayder,
Thanks for looking out for me. I had heard the same thing! So... I had a friend of mine who works for a power company, get me some power line insulating blankets, which is what you are looking at. They are Die-electric (<-SP), virgin rubber that is carbon free. They will not promote corriosin. I think with less of the tank sitting on a salty fiberglass board the tank will be better off. At least it'll be 50lbs lighter, as my tank is 92.5" long x 28.5" wide. Anyone out there make a big fish hold out of the forward storage? I'd like to see some pictures if possible. I'll post more photos as I progress and heal! Best of Luck, Jason |
#50
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Perfect.
again tx for sharing the pictures |
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