'77 Sceptre Rebuild

[Capt Chuck]

If I owed a Sceptre, this would be my final goal

Gucci all the way!

[htillman]

You have gone to the point I did with my Sceptre. I removed the cap and did everything you mentioned. I will PM you and we can talk if you wish.
ET

[uncleboo]

If I owed a Sceptre, this would be my final goal

Gucci all the way!

Now THAT is boat porn!!!

[bigeasy1]

Looks to me like your doing a good job It's always ojt anyway.Everone has their own methods,and most usually work out well.

Like you,I did my transom(I/O) from the inside on my 74 Tsunami.I cut the rear of cap off from the hawse pipe to the stern to access the inner transom.

After I removed all the rotted core I applied a layer of mat and a layer of 1708 to the exposed skin to thicken the glass up a bit.
I two pices of 3/4 marine fir plywood glued together with epoxy for the transom core.
I bedded the new core on to the transom skin with hull&deck putty and clamped and bolted it all in.

It was an outdrive so i was able to place some bolts where the drive cutout was,and the other bolts were place above the waterline.I figured it was one less thing I'd have to fill later on.
After all was cured,I layed up a few layers of 1708 over the core and into the hull sides and bottom.I used Polyester resin.

I glassed the cap back on and faired everything back in.It was a lot of work from the inside,but I think it has less of a chance of affecting the integrity of the hull,as you don't cut any of the outer hull skin off.
************************************************** ********
ROTTED BILGE/TRANSOM



STARTING THE OLD CORE REMOVAL



OLD CORE GONE GLASS ALL GROUND CLEAN WITH #24 GRIT



MAT & 1708 LAYED UP TO BUILD UP GLASS THICKNESS



NEW TRANSOM BEDDED IN



CLAMPS,BRACES,ETC.



LAYING UP NEW INNER GLASS SKIN



FINISHED SKIN, CUTOUT MADE,NEW ENGINE BEDS MADE/INSTALLED



FINISHED BILGE/TRANSOM





RECORED TRANSOM CAP I GOT RID OF THE BAITWELLS



ALL GLASS TIED BACK IN CAP ON ENGINE IN.

[newellchunker]

Thats some nice looking work John! Come on down and give me some pointers!! ET23 I welcome your PM and would be more than happy to talk to you!

We got some old core removed from the cap today, and as we were looking at it we decided that the majority of the wood looked good and dry so we went down each side where the cleats, bow rail and the bow pulpit were mounted as these areas were rotten so we removed the core from around these areas. Unfortunately we punched thru in a few spots, so we sanded the areas smooth and layed up 1 layer of 1708 and then another layer of 1.5oz mat to beef it back up again. I believe that we are going to order a sheet of Coosa and recore with it. Does anyone know if they make it in 3/8" thickness?

[bigeasy1]

Thanks newell.
From the Looks of it I think you know what you're doing.You'll be happy that you recored the deck.I didn't as it didn't seem that bad,but now I've developed a soft spot in front of the windshield.
I can't help with Coosa info,but the one mistake(besides not recoring the deck) I made, was not sealing the hull to deck cap joint before I replaced the rub rail.
I was always finding a small amount of water in the bilge,and finally traced it to the hull to deck joint getting doused in rough water.We found water running down inside the cabin from the the seam of the hull/deck.
Don't make the same mistake I did.

If the boat wasn't a six hour drive from home,I'd be up there removing the rubrail and sealing that joint.I'm still kickin myself for that error.

Keep the pictures coming on your project.

[newellchunker]

Well we've moved on to the deck/ sole of the boat this week. We've been able to remove the floor and about 500 lbs of "Potter Putty"!! Since these pics were taken I've ground down the stringers some to remove the remaining globs of putty. I believe we're gonna lay another layer or two of mat down on top of the stringers (for piece of mind) mainly and where I got kinda deep with the grinder also.