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  #41  
Old 09-23-2015, 10:14 PM
FLexpat FLexpat is offline
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Quick trip a couple of weeks ago - finally got around to looking at the paperwork; the hull was built in '76 but it is a '77 model year and listed as such on the title.
Did the final trimming on the drive hole and fit check for the Bravo transom - decided to protect the gimbal bearing and leave the transom housing in 'til I get back to prevent raccoons and other critters from getting too attracted to the nice dry engine area.
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Went ahead and made motor mount risers to raise the mounts 2.25" off the new engine beds since I also raised the drive hole 2". The risers are 1.5" Coosa with a 3/4" piece of aluminum plate epoxied on to bolt the mounts to. I will drill and tap them for real bolts since I hated the old lag bolts and doubt they would hold in the Coosa.
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FAS- thx for the encouragement! I am open to any suggestions as the whole gelcoat spraying thing is an experiment for me.
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  #42  
Old 09-24-2015, 07:03 AM
flyingfrizzle flyingfrizzle is offline
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[QUOTE=FLexpat;239056]Quick trip a couple of weeks ago - finally got around to looking at the paperwork; the hull was built in '76 but it is a '77 model year and listed as such on the title.
QUOTE]

Seen this a lot on the latter year models, transom is stamped one year and titled the next.
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  #43  
Old 09-24-2015, 08:48 AM
DonV DonV is offline
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Same as mine Frizz. Mine was hull #7 laid July of 1978. If the hull was laid after June 30th it was titled the next year, mine is actually titled 1979. One of those strange Government things I guess.
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  #44  
Old 09-24-2015, 08:27 PM
FAS FAS is offline
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makes sense,kinda like the car industry..do it now too..
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  #45  
Old 09-24-2015, 09:10 PM
martin martin is offline
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Mitch your seacraft is coming together nicely.. Your craftsmanship and documentation is excellent. Can't wait to see you float her...
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  #46  
Old 09-26-2015, 10:34 AM
FishStretcher FishStretcher is offline
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Looks nice! Your engine mounts look like my t-top feet. Except mine are 1" G-10 from McMaster. It cuts with an 18v ryobi circular saw. I tapped that directly.

This is during construction. Next is a new fuel tank hatch and gel coat the deck. Just thinking the geometry was similar for not dissimilar loads.
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  #47  
Old 10-01-2015, 12:33 PM
FLexpat FLexpat is offline
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Thx for the kind words guys. This is taking WAY longer than I expected - oh well.

Definitely like the idea of FG plate - I had intended to use aluminum plate in the decks to mount seats to (mostly because I have a bunch of 1/2" AL plate) - now I'm thinking that 1/2" FG is a better idea. Most of the deck will be cored with 1/2" corecell so all the materials would fit and play nice together.
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  #48  
Old 10-03-2015, 07:09 PM
martin martin is offline
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Yea I thought the same thing ,since I have plenty of alum plate. But sis not like the dissimilar metal thing either. So scrap ed the plan.
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  #49  
Old 10-03-2015, 07:11 PM
martin martin is offline
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Hey I'm still working on mine and its been 3 yrs...lol. Mine is 100' away under a cover boat lift.. You are definitely doing much better than me...lol
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  #50  
Old 11-22-2015, 11:39 PM
FLexpat FLexpat is offline
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Framed up the new hatch openings in the stern cap with Coosa and epoxied them on the underside of the stern cap (didn't have time for an after pic though).
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That started the thought process of where to run hoses and wires…
Since I couldn’t do much more real work (long story), I put together an electrical diagram to make sure I consider everything under the cap before it gets finished and glassed back on.
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