#41
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Quick trip a couple of weeks ago - finally got around to looking at the paperwork; the hull was built in '76 but it is a '77 model year and listed as such on the title.
Did the final trimming on the drive hole and fit check for the Bravo transom - decided to protect the gimbal bearing and leave the transom housing in 'til I get back to prevent raccoons and other critters from getting too attracted to the nice dry engine area. Went ahead and made motor mount risers to raise the mounts 2.25" off the new engine beds since I also raised the drive hole 2". The risers are 1.5" Coosa with a 3/4" piece of aluminum plate epoxied on to bolt the mounts to. I will drill and tap them for real bolts since I hated the old lag bolts and doubt they would hold in the Coosa. FAS- thx for the encouragement! I am open to any suggestions as the whole gelcoat spraying thing is an experiment for me. |
#42
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[QUOTE=FLexpat;239056]Quick trip a couple of weeks ago - finally got around to looking at the paperwork; the hull was built in '76 but it is a '77 model year and listed as such on the title.
QUOTE] Seen this a lot on the latter year models, transom is stamped one year and titled the next.
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Current SeaCraft projects: 68 27' SeaCraft Race boat 71 20' SeaCraft CC sf 73 23' SeaCraft CC sf 74 20' SeaCraft Sceptre 74 20' SeaCraft CC sf |
#43
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Same as mine Frizz. Mine was hull #7 laid July of 1978. If the hull was laid after June 30th it was titled the next year, mine is actually titled 1979. One of those strange Government things I guess.
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#44
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makes sense,kinda like the car industry..do it now too..
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#45
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Mitch your seacraft is coming together nicely.. Your craftsmanship and documentation is excellent. Can't wait to see you float her...
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#46
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Looks nice! Your engine mounts look like my t-top feet. Except mine are 1" G-10 from McMaster. It cuts with an 18v ryobi circular saw. I tapped that directly.
This is during construction. Next is a new fuel tank hatch and gel coat the deck. Just thinking the geometry was similar for not dissimilar loads. |
#47
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Thx for the kind words guys. This is taking WAY longer than I expected - oh well.
Definitely like the idea of FG plate - I had intended to use aluminum plate in the decks to mount seats to (mostly because I have a bunch of 1/2" AL plate) - now I'm thinking that 1/2" FG is a better idea. Most of the deck will be cored with 1/2" corecell so all the materials would fit and play nice together. |
#48
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Yea I thought the same thing ,since I have plenty of alum plate. But sis not like the dissimilar metal thing either. So scrap ed the plan.
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#49
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Hey I'm still working on mine and its been 3 yrs...lol. Mine is 100' away under a cover boat lift.. You are definitely doing much better than me...lol
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#50
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Framed up the new hatch openings in the stern cap with Coosa and epoxied them on the underside of the stern cap (didn't have time for an after pic though).
That started the thought process of where to run hoses and wires… Since I couldn’t do much more real work (long story), I put together an electrical diagram to make sure I consider everything under the cap before it gets finished and glassed back on. |
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